Review: The Test Kitchen Fledgelings

Monday, December 11th, 2023

Food
After more than a decade leading the South African fine-dining scene, The Test Kitchen team is passing the baton to a whole new generation of aspiring chefs and hospitality hopefuls. TTK Fledgelings functions as something of an incubator, providing those who have no access to formal chef’s or guest-service training with the opportunity to carve out a career in the industry. The ‘fledgelings’ are mentored by restaurateur Luke Dale Roberts and chef Nathan Clarke while working (and earning) full-time. When Fledgelings opened in 2021, it was a strictly à la carte affair. Today, while you do still have the option of the two- or three-course à la carte menu, the team has grown confident enough in their skills to also present a six-course discovery menu, aptly dubbed the Fully Fledged menu. The discovery menu’s plum duck with chicken liver, poultry jus and pommes chateau is particularly elegant (although it does have a R150 surcharge attached to it). The café au lait beef fillet (served with bone marrow, turnip-and-mushroom cream, and potato gratin) is also heavenly, and the cocoa-nib frangipane cake with mascarpone, chocolate ice cream and hazelnut praline is everything a dessert should be (however it, too, has a supplementary charge of R100). On the à la carte side of things, don’t miss the sweet-potato ssam to start – a symphony of charred sweet potato, tofu purée, dehydrated feta, fried cabbage, shiitake and broccoli. Luke’s famous fish tacos appear here, too, and there’s a decent selection of vegetarian options (an assiette of beetroot, mushroom crespelle, the panko-crusted tofu burger).

Drinks
On a balmy night, you’ll find instant refreshment in the veggie martini, with gin, cucumber, celery purée, lime, elderflower and syrup. (With all that greenery, you can almost trick yourself into believing it’s good for you.) The Fledgelings wine list is a carefully curated selection of local estates, from heavyweights to boutique cellars. At the time of writing, there was no sommelier on hand to help you find the perfect match for your à la carte meal, however you can choose to pair the Fully Fledged menu with wine for an additional R600.

Service
Each of the fledgelings in the front-of-house team is coached by mentors who work alongside them during service, making this a well-oiled machine.

Ambience
The decor, ambience and even the playlist reflect the ethos of Fledgelings: that you’re in for a sophisticated dining experience but in a relaxed, nurturing and playful setting.