Review: Protege

Thursday, December 7th, 2023

Food
The name of this member of the La Colombe group is a clue to Scot Kirton’s intention behind it: a space where young chefs who have come up through the ranks are given an opportunity to shine in their own kitchens. Chef Zane Soutar, who has worked with both Scot and chef James Gaag for many years, is at the helm at Protégé. The emphasis here is on relaxed fine dining and modern flavour in a contemporary setting. Two tasting menus are on offer for both lunch and dinner: the seven-course chef’s menu and a smaller four-course menu, which is also available as a vegetarian option. Toasted sourdough, butter, wild garlic oil, trout gravadlax, aubergine, biltong, olives and beef tataki kick things off, with the beef offering good flavour from the inclusion of avocado and chipotle. The seared tuna with miso aubergine and ssamjang is light and fresh, with a rosemary tuille adding texture. Korean fried chicken (a dish that has always been a favourite on the menu) lives up to its reputation, delivering satisfying crunch on the outside and tender meat, with just the right amount of sauce. The octopus, pork, muhammara and salsa macha is well cooked, with the salsa adding a welcome burst of freshness. For mains, Wagyu with porcini and smoked pommes purée is very well cooked, and accompanied by simply presented and delicious vegetables. (This option attracts a supplement of R300.) The coal-roasted lamb chop with smoked tomato and salsa verde is also perfectly prepared, with the accompanying caponata an excellent pairing, bringing with it good flavour and texture. The final main course choice – Kerala kingklip with coriander, sultanas and labneh – showcases local South African and tandoori flavours. For dessert, opt for a selection of artisanal bonbons; chocolate, pumpkin and orange; or baked Camembert with black garlic and truffle. These are not included in the four-course menu and attract supplements.

Drinks
An optional wine pairing is offered with both tasting menus, with some exciting matches, and wine is available by the glass and bottle. A lovely selection of non-alcoholic drinks also hits the mark.

Service
Service is attentive but casual, in keeping with the atmosphere of the restaurant. Staff are knowledgeable and enthusiastic.

Ambience
The open-plan kitchen island is the focus here, with seating at the bar overlooking it for those who like to watch the chefs in action. The décor is clean and modern with light wood and touches of marble and brass adding a sense of style. Pops of green echo the pretty garden outside and a wood-burning fireplace adds cosiness in winter.