Review: Orangerie at Le Lude

Thursday, December 7th, 2023

Food
There’s something innately celebratory about visiting an estate like Le Lude that specialises in Methode Cap Classique. Naturally, this adds an extra sparkle (if you will) to your meal at its Orangerie Restaurant. Chef Nicolene Barrow plates up a feast of fresh, seasonal produce cooked in the French classical style. Begin with the best twice-baked cheese soufflé you’ve ever tasted: wonderfully creamy Gruyère perfectly balanced by the freshness of an apple-and-celery salad. The duck-liver parfait has an excellent smoothness and arrives with an above-average brioche. Or opt for the duo of pear salad: fresh and roasted pear with Parma ham, whipped goat's cheese, celery, wild rocket, wholegrain mustard and apple cider vinegar dressing. Fresh West Coast mussels are a winning choice for mains, the lemoniness from the gremolata crème perfectly cutting the richness. Also on the seafood track is a delicious kabeljou in a creamy lemon velouté, with salted capers and garden peas. However, it’s the highly flavoursome confit duck leg – served with braised lentils, baby spinach, smoky bacon lardons, whipped goat's cheese and duck jus – that really wins the day. (It’s good to note ahead of time that there is only one vegetarian option for mains.) Portions are extremely generous, so you may not have room for dessert. But if you’d like to sample Orangerie’s sweet treats, do make a reservation for morning or afternoon tea (10am, 10:30am, 11am or 3pm). A selection of savouries and freshly baked confectionery is accompanied by premium teas and a glass of the estate’s award-winning MCC.

Drinks
The wine list is compact but includes a satisfying number of options for each varietal, from local estates, as well as a handful of dessert wines, ports and grappa. Page to the very back (past the standard sodas and warm beverages) and you’ll find the rare and fine wines section, which holds treasures such as a Le Lude Brut in the Agrafé style, and a Hermanuspietersfontein No 5 Sauvignon Blanc from 2012.

Service
Service is friendly and professional, with a very hands-on manager.

Ambience
Bright white décor, a classic chequered floor, tall cottage-pane windows and plenty of plants all come together to make the interior of Orangerie feel something like a conservatory. It’s a place you instantly want to settle into for an afternoon.