Review: Madre Stanford

Thursday, December 7th, 2023

Food
Madre is a dining institution – and destination – in the village of Stanford. Chef-owner Madré Bester’s unique, modern brand of country cooking shows respect for local and seasonal produce, a deep understanding of provenance, and a sense of community. Divided into small and main plates, the blackboard menu isn’t merely an aesthetic choice – it’s updated daily and shows sincerity in its choices. The food is presented elegantly but without pretension, reflecting a delight in the ingredients – most of which are sourced from the restaurant’s veggie garden and the local Stanford market. A fabulous small plate presents local burrata, served with preserved ginger, whole spices and citrus – the burrata making milky magic when cut open and mingling with the preserve’s spiced syrup. Madre’s risottos, too, are things of beauty: a prawn-and-chorizo risotto is perfectly cooked and luscious, the prawns delicate in flavour and texture, and the chorizo contributing depth and just the right level of seasoning; while seasonal waterblommetjies get the royal treatment in a creamy fermented barley risotto with sweet, moreish onions. For those craving some meaty substance, a main plate of duck and braised red cabbage is just the ticket, the acidity of the cabbage perfectly paired with the well-cooked duck, and a citrus bread sauce and soft potato dumpling rounding out the dish. To finish, a tarte au citron explodes with bright, true lemoniness and is topped with a delicate crackle of bruléed sugar, and a bowl of stewed guavas is beautifully pure in flavour, not overly sweet, and complemented by a prune ice cream and caramelly brandy snap. Madre is fresh, bright and wholesome, and effortlessly part of its environment and community. This is soul country food, served in the perfect setting, offering diners excellent quality and pricing.

Drinks
The wine list is small and carefully selected, professing an affection for wines from the Sandveld.

Service
Madré and husband Morné’s warm, friendly approach encapsulates gracious country hospitality. The service staff is knowledgeable and sensitive, and the dining experience a delightful one.

Ambience
Madre is located in the heart of Stanford, in a heritage cottage flanked by mulberry trees, and has an enviable veggie garden. The beautiful stoep is practically tailormade for long, lazy lunches, and might just convert you to small-town living.