Review: Le Coin Francais

Wednesday, December 6th, 2023

Food
Chef and owner Darren Badenhorst’s philosophy of ‘art on a plate’, and his classical French training, shine through his nostalgia-inspired, multi-course tasting menus (also available as vegetarian options), which speak to the elegance of classical French cuisine while paying tribute to the artisans, produce and terroir of the Cape. His vision is executed with precision by head chef Miguel de Caries. The menu kicks off with a bread course – sourdough served with tarragon oil, candied ginger and turmeric – which is an excellent opening act and sets the tone for what’s to come. The next course is a choice between the likes of seven-day-cured Wagyu tartare with porcini Catalan, fynbos-pickled beetroot, dehydrated biltong and a rosemary leaf tuille; or two-hour rum-and-beetroot-cured local trout, vadouvan spice crumb, split buttermilk emulsion and wild river herbs. Both display impressive technique and showcase local ingredients. The sharpness of the pickled beetroot contrasts well with the richness of the Catalan in the Wagyu dish. The butter-poached and barbequed north coast langoustine, aerated Grüberg, West Coast snoek brandade velouté, wild vineyard shoots, garden pea and pancetta risotto is beautifully garnished with trout roe, and one of the most popular dishes on the menu. The snoek voluté is luxuriously rich and the acidity of the wine pairing (the Mullineux 2022 white blend) carries the weight of the dish very well. The French-style venison dumpling, slow-braised venison, sauce of venison bourguignon and foraged wild herbs is satisfyingly unctuous; and the quail slow-cooked two ways with confit pork belly, smoked paprika polenta, burnt baby leeks, vineyard grape reduction and blonde jus is well executed, tender and juicy. For dessert, expect choices such as rum baba with beurre noisette ice cream, spiced Anglaise foam and pumpkin marmalade, or ‘the chocolate forest’ – tonka bean custard log, vegan chocolate mousse, brownie soil, matcha moss, pickled shimeji mushroom and coffee crémeux.

Drinks
Wine pairing with the tasting menus is offered at an additional charge, with the sommelier suggesting some interesting options. Alternatively, you can order by the bottle or glass. The list covers local as well as international options, and there is a digestif trolley from which you can choose something special.

Service
The service is warm and professional, with the whole team focused on making sure that guests have a good experience. Guests are warmly welcomed and offered a glass of bubbly on arrival.

Ambience
The space is modern and comfortable, with a spiral staircase making an impact. A wood-burning fireplace adds a cosy touch in winter.