Review: The Jordan Restaurant with Marthinus Ferreira

Monday, December 11th, 2023

Food
Renovated and reopened a little more than 12 months ago as The Jordan Restaurant with Marthinus Ferreira, this gem exemplifies the winning combination of a Winelands setting with a well-oiled team and a confident, mature chef. It’s not an overstatement to say that Marthinus Ferreira – now in Stellenbosch after 12 years of running Joburg favourite DW Eleven-13 – has helped to shape the South African fine-dining scene. The menu at Jordan is a beautifully curated combination of South African elements and global techniques, with innovative ideas that play on legacy and tradition and reflect the chef’s experience and identity. Presentation is interesting but not contrived, allowing each element in a dish to really showcase its purpose there. You can choose between the three-course à la carte menu (R695, with wine pairing for R345) and the tasting menu (R985, with wine pairing for R600 or a non-alcoholic pairing for R250). Anyone opting for the former will be pleased to know that certain showstopper dishes appear on both menus. For example, there’s the Tuna Miang Kham starter – a version of the classic Thai snack only this time with the spinach chiffonaded atop beautifully seasoned tuna with herbs, greens and spiced peanut and coconut dust (you’re going to want to scoop up that tuna with the sago nori crisps – so much fun to eat!). You’ll also find the sous-vide hake on both menus. This perfectly tender hake gains depth from the waterblommetjie XO, softness and contrast from the citrus sabayon, and groundedness from the parsnip purée. Carnivores, don’t fret: a rich confit lamb shoulder holds its own on the à la carte menu, as does the chicken ballotine with pommes purée, prune-and-brandy compôte, braised lettuce and pine-ring velouté. Finish on a note to remember with the bold Dalewood Huguenot cheese course-cum-dessert, which includes surprising delights such as Padrón pepper jam, pistachio sponge, cherry guavas and cheese snow. (Of course, pastry chef Motheba Makhetha’s take on good, old-fashioned apple crumble and tiramisu shouldn’t be missed either.) Good to know: the tasting menu is only available if ordered by the whole table.

Drinks
The wine pairing includes excellent vintages from Jordan estate, but not exclusively so. This allows flexibility for sommelier Richard Chitukutuku (a long-time collaborator of Marthinus’s) to find the exact match for each dish, resulting in a pairing that is sublime, as well as being quite reasonable.

Service
You’ll find a warm and gracious welcome here. Service is attentive throughout the experience, and it’s lovely to have Marthinus circulating between tables for a little chat. There’s an obvious commitment to hospitality here.

Ambience
With the benefit of a complete renovation barely a year prior to the time of writing, The Restaurant at Jordan is a bright, airy and welcoming space. Floor-to-ceiling foldable doors make the most of the tranquil view of lush greenery and an expanse of water. Meanwhile, the open kitchen offers a glimpse into the culinary magic unfolding. Attention to detail is the name of the game here, from the rich terracotta hues of the crockery to the custom (and extremely comfortable) Louw Roets-designed chairs. It’s worth noting that parties with children under 12 will be seated in a separate, private room.