Review: Fermier

Wednesday, December 6th, 2023

Food
‘Farm-style’ is not a descriptor one usually associates with the Pretoria dining scene, yet it’s what the team at Fermier has managed to achieve, thanks to a barn-like interior of rammed-earth walls and raw wood, a top-to-tail kitchen ethos, and a commitment to becoming completely self-sustaining in the near future. There’s nothing rustic about what’s on the plates, though. Fermier offers diners a single experience: an eight-course tasting menu (with optional wine pairing) that is well-balanced, refined and elegant. You know you’re in for something special from the first bite: a perfectly cut eggshell presented in a beautiful ceramic egg cup, overflowing with a cloud of hollandaise espuma and a small scoop of lumpfish caviar. A moment later, your fork uncovers a surprise of trout flakes (local, from Dullstroom) among dainty florets of broccoli. The next seven courses lead you through the story of seasonality that chef Adriaan Maree is telling at Fermier. There’s the cauliflower and onion course, with its velvety velouté and confit egg yolk made with eggs from the local community farmer. All the ingredients in the soup course – a sheep’s-milk Catalan cheese with caramelised cashew, wasabi leaves and other greens, alongside a rocket soup poured tableside – are also farmed at or around Fermier. And then there’s the sensational local lamb served two equally delicious ways, one of them alongside perfect cabbage from another nearby farmer.

Drinks
Though there is a small selection of other beverages on offer, the team at Fermier invites you to focus on, and enjoy, the wine. The list is compact but carefully curated, and includes a number of interesting local estates – and good vintages. Unless you are absolutely beholden to a particular bottle, we recommend you opt for the wine pairing, which is well chosen and very reasonably priced.

Service
Dinner at Fermier unfolds like a perfectly timed, well-executed show thanks to the attentive, knowledgeable staff. Each dish and its provenance is explained as it arrives.

Ambience
Surrounded by lush greenery and farm animals on the approach to Fermier, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d driven a few hours from the city. Once inside, warm lighting, sheepskins on the chairs, an open kitchen and that impeccable service turn an otherwise potentially spartan space into a cosy dining experience. Seating is fairly limited so it’s wise to book well in advance. Fermier does not cater for children under 12.