Review: Elgr

Wednesday, December 6th, 2023

Food
Chef-owner Jesper Nilsson was born in Sweden, trained at South Africa’s ICA and has worked in the restaurant industries of both countries. This has afforded him a unique culinary point of view that he brings to his own eatery, where local, seasonal ingredients take centre stage in dishes that are flavour-forward and contemporary. Offering a good balance between meaty and plant-based dishes, the menu consists of small, tapas-style plates meant to be shared at the beginning of the sitting, and larger dishes that you can have all to yourself. To start, the charcuterie board is a great way to ease into the meal, with a selection of Parma ham, spiced and red-wine chorizos, salami and duck-liver paté complemented by pickled onions and gherkins that balance out all the salty, fatty flavours. The potato wedges are another banger with garlic, rosemary and tzatziki – the crispy outside, fluffy inside wedges perfectly designed to be drowned in the lemony, creamy, herby dip. The white Neapolitan-style pizza with seasonal ingredients – in this instance, Brussels sprouts and Jerusalem artichoke – is a menu regular for a reason: it’s deeply flavourful and fired to absolute perfection in the courtyard pizza oven. An absolute highlight is the beef Bourguignon with pommes purée, Parmesan and parsley – hearty and moreish, but not too rich, with intense flavour. To end, a nectarine, hazelnut and brown-butter galette is the ideal meal-clincher; the sweet tartness of the fruit beautifully offset by the rich nuttiness of the brown butter. Or you could call it a day with a simple but satisfying local cheese plate, served with home-made crispbread and a tangy membrillo. With the menu geared towards communal eating, the dining experience is relaxed, yet special, and at a very affordable price too, considering the quality of the ingredients at play.

Drinks
The wine list is expansive, predominantly local, but also with a small selection of international wines. The sommelier is knowledgeable and relaxed, not pushy or showy – a very refreshing quality. There’s also a resident mixologist whose whisky cocktail ‘Let them eat cake’ is deliciously refreshing – perfectly pink with just the right amount of sweetness from the pomegranate juice and acidity from the lemon.

Service
The welcome is warm and friendly, with bubbles on arrival, but the dining service itself could do with a bit more coordination on the floor.

Ambience
The interior is Insta-ready: minimalist-industrial clad in moody tones of charcoal with pops of teal, blonde wood and brown leather, an enviable assortment of designer chairs and light pendants, and a bounty of thriving potted plants. In winter, a roaring fireplace makes a cosy dining experience, while the small, lush courtyard outside, with its slick bar and pizza oven, is a vibe in summer.