Review: Creation Wines Tasting Room

Wednesday, December 6th, 2023

Food
Creation Wines’ owners Jean-Claude and Carolyn Martin have found in executive chef Eleanor Coetzee someone who shares their reverence for nature and the singular beauty of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, where the estate is situated. The breakfast, a la carte and seasonal wine pairing menus – all of which include plant-based counterparts – are clever and considered and built around the experience of food and wine. Eleanor has a way of playing up the inherent flavours and textures of the ingredients themselves, making for dishes that are refreshingly light and wholesome, and plated in an equally careful, clean and unfussy way. A virtuous start to the seasonal wine-pairing menu is the heart chakra soup, which nods to Ayurvedic cooking – intensely green with a clean flavour and just a hint of tarragon. A seafood course of B'Bos trout with pak choi, teriyaki and daikon delivers perfectly seasoned trout, cooked to perfection with crisp skin, delicately imbued with flavours from the Asian ingredients – a great demonstration of the chef’s subtle restraint. Equally delightful is the oyster mushroom and gochujang taco with corn, black beans, coriander and lime – a celebration of its ingredients, all completely balanced in a shatteringly light taco. The undisputed crescendo of the experience is the confit duck with cauliflower and a smoked paprika chickpea purée: careful attention is paid to the cooking of the duck, the cauliflower is beautifully grounded by the smoky chickpea puree, and the dish isn’t overly sauced, letting the respective components shine. To end the meal, the fine Cape vintage brownie, with rose geranium and pink peppercorn gelato, is in great service of its wine pairing, while the dairy-free hard cheese with cacao nib and liquorice dust is satisfying and well balanced. The restaurant absolutely delivers on its promise of an exceptional experience, the brand’s philosophy of biodiversity is honoured by the food and wine, and the dining experience offers exceptional value for money.

Drinks
There is such detailed attention paid to each of the estate’s wines, which are truly a celebration of sustainability and innovation. Everyone is knowledgeable – and proud – of the wines, from the waitrons to the owners, and happy to extrapolate on the terroir, varietals and tasting notes.

Service
The level of service is exceptional, with a confident professionalism displayed throughout. The chef and owners regularly do the rounds among the tables, and the wine server and waitrons are attentive and knowledgeable.

Ambience
Long wooden tables with beautiful table settings and large assortment of plants add a homely, yet stylish, feel to the bright and airy interior. The setting is truly magnificent and offers diners views for days.