Review: Chorus

Wednesday, December 6th, 2023

Food
Chorus, the latest arrow in chef Bertus Basson’s culinary quiver, is situated in what was previously the Restaurant at Waterkloof. The menu is honest, hyper-seasonal and hyper-local, with many of the ingredients sourced from the biodynamic wine estate itself. Diners can choose between four- or six-course set menus, with the option of a wine pairing – well worth it, considering the calibre of wines and deft pairings. Each course tells a story of the area, often name-checking local producers such as Frankie Fenner Meat Merchants and Usana free-range eggs. The tapas line-up includes a delicious sea pumpkin daltjie, channelling the spice and flavour of a bhaji fritter, and a pure delight served alongside beef tartare, smoked snoek pâté and mebos. A deceptively simple first course of garlic soup, served with a soft-poached egg, lemon and parsley oil is rich, pungent and creamy – the flavours really coming into their own when paired with the tropical acidity of Harry Hartman’s Take Me to Church Chenin Blanc 2021. Veering towards the more substantial fare, the potato gnocchi is light and flavourful, and the perfect vehicle for a hearty beef shin and tongue ragu, while the seared yellowtail with Saldanha Bay mussel chowder and fennel is incredibly flavourful with phenomenal texture. Vegetarian offerings too are considered and innovative without being fussy. The pumpkin-seed tofu is unexpected yet delicious, with its creamy texture and warmly spiced coriander crust; and the charred cauliflower with chickpea curry, crispy onion, pommes dauphin and carrot ketchup offers great contrasting flavours, but could do with a bit more acid. To finish, the airy apple pie soufflé with its not-too-sweet cinnamon ice cream is a real treat, the acidity of the apple really coming into its own when offset by the floral acidity of the estate’s Heatherleigh – a non-vintage Chenin-Viognier-Muscadel blend. Being a Bertus Basson establishment, the dining experience is unsurprisingly delightful, leaving you satisfied and happy to swipe your credit card.

Drinks
The wine list centres on Waterkloof wines to great effect, with smart pairings, but also showcases a number of wines from other top-notch estates in the area, of which there are many. The sommelier is happy to steer diners in the right direction should they forego the wine pairing.

Service
The service is prompt, efficient and friendly. The level of servers' knowledge of the menu really brings the food to life, driving home the restaurant’s ethos of telling the stories of local producers.

Ambience
The cantilevered glass cage in which the restaurant is set is nothing short of spectacular, letting diners drink in a view of the beautiful wine estate and the False Bay seascape beyond. The décor is pared down and modern, with the architecture of the double-volume space doing most of the talking.