The view of Avignon from Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

Provence. The name alone evokes images of sun-drenched fields, olives, lavender, and vines heavy with grapes. I have been curious about the region ever since reading Peter Mayle’s A Year In Provence during high school. I wanted to hear the nasal patois he referred to, I wanted to smell wild rosemary on a passing breeze, but more than anything I wanted to experience the hospitality and generosity that I had read about, and discover the meaning of de Terroire.

Peter Mayle did not lie; Provence did not disappoint.

I stumbled across WalkInn Provence online. This company specialises in both guided and self-guided walking and cycling tours of Provence; its highly efficient and capable team also creates bespoke tours to suit requirements and budget. Before I knew it, a customised cycling, eating and cooking tour, a sample of all that Provence has to offer, had been arranged for me. I was going to take the slow route: seventeen days in the sun with countless villages to visit on the back of my trusty steed, the E-Bike.

My adventure began in Avignon, the Papal seat during the twelfth century. Like all serious tourists, I did the mandatory jig on the Pont d’Avignon and gawked at the Palais des Papes. I ferreted out the only remaining Van Gogh painting in Provence in the Musée d’Angladon (along with several Toulouse-Lautrecs) and stared at the original fourteenth-century wooden and frescoed ceilings in the Mediatheque.

The first real surprise was my guesthouse, Lumani, nestled in the old city, just inside the ramparts. I felt like I was in my own fairytale. I kept expecting knights to come clunking down the street in full armour with standards billowing in the breeze. Not only were my hosts hospitable, they were hugely knowledgeable and gave me a list of absolute musts and absolute avoids. On the latter list was everything on the Place de l’Horloge and Rue de la République. One particularly atrocious cup of coffee later, I was more than happy to oblige.

On the musts side, L’Epicerie, hidden down an alleyway in Place Saint-Pierre, is a gem that offers wholesome, homemade Provençal fare that’s reasonably priced. For a more upscale experience, try Le Moutardier du Pape, directly opposite the Palais des Papes and with a great view. Both restaurants focus on seasonal products.

For something absolutely special, however, head to Le Jardin de la Tour (hidden on Rue de la Tour). Chef Jean Marc Larrue (Disciple d’Escoffier) offers cooking courses and market tours of Les Halles (on Place Pie). I had the privilege of spending the day with Jean Marc and playing in his kitchen with his team. We began with a trip to the market, where I was introduced to all of Chef Larrue’s suppliers, who explained with evident pride and enthusiasm about their produce. I dutifully sampled everything placed before me. This was no hardship…

Chef Larrue’s approach is that food is like theatre; the chef is the director who must use everything at his disposal to create a memorable experience. Memorable it certainly was. In that one day, I learned more than in a year of chef school.

Olives from right outside the Moulin’s front door

Just across the Rhône is the tiny Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. At the end of the main (and only) street within the walls is Le Moulin de Chartreuses. This olive press built in 1358 is still in operation (in a modernised form) and all of the locals in the area are invited to bring their olives during the harvest season for pressing. The Moulin is family owned and run, adhering to strict Appelation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) requirements. The nephew, Nicholas, took me on a tour of the mill and explained that all olives are hand picked, sorted and brought to the mill within 48 hours of picking in order to qualify for the AOC mark. The award-winning olive oils from the mill are exported all over the world and grace the tables of, amongst others, the Royal family of Denmark.

Visitors can do a free tasting of the olive oils and, best of all, an olive oil liqueur made according to a secret family recipe. It’s also worthwhile to have lunch or dinner in the family’s restaurant that forms part of the Moulin (run by mother Catherine), in which olives take pride of place. I lingered over lunch (which included seven-hour braised lamb) for over three hours, and was the lucky recipient of several extra dishes. I left with gifts of truffle oil and a bottle of the olive oil liqueur, too. While I plan to be generous with the oil, the liqueur will be shared only with my memories.

The interior of the Moulin

***

Useful information
Avignon is easily accessible from Paris by TGV and the trip is about 2½ hours. It’s also possible to fly to Avignon from within France. Villeneuve-lès-Avignon is about a 30-minute walk or a five-minute bus ride from the main Avignon terminus. The Visite Avignon card provides discounted rates at all attractions in Avignon and is available from all tourist points of interest and the Tourist Information on Rue de la Republique.