Florida Road is enigmatic. It stretches from the picturesque rose gardens at Jameson Park (which just about falls in the shadow of King’s House, the president’s official residence in Durban), past beautiful old churches and period buildings, into the bustling heart of restaurants, shops and offices and, finally, over a large intersection towards the vaguely seedy area of Greyville. It proudly preserves its reputation as Durban’s culinary epicentre, because, like the city itself, it’s a heady mix of surf city cool, cultural diversity and creative collaboration.

On the Grevyille side of Florida Road is Mama Luciana’s, run by Marco Conte and his mom Luciana. It is the quintessential trattoria where fire-engine-red chairs match the checked tablecloths, and soccer paraphernalia festoons the ceiling. The intimate interior is doubled in size with pavement tables. If you’re short on time but big on flavour, lunch could be as simple as a cappuccino and a meatball pannini, or try the fabulous pizzas and pastas: stuffed ones like pumpkin or prawn panzerotti and cannelloni are homemade.

The pace slows pleasantly when you step through French doors into conservatory-styled The Brasserie. Set back off the street in the Quarters Hotel complex, it offers a quietly contemplative antidote to the hustle and bustle of Florida Road. Expect fine dining perks like starched napery and attentive, discreet service. The classically inspired menu manages not to take itself too seriously as it delivers anything from gourmet breakfasts to decadent desserts. Quality and consistency are key, and beautiful presentation is foreplay rather than empty flirtation.

As one of the strip’s longest-standing restaurants, Butcher Boys has firmly entrenched itself as a top quality grill. Cast aside illusions of contemporary food and settle into the handsome eatery for beautifully cut, aged and prepared steaks that will gladden the heart of any self-respecting carnivore. A good wine list and gaggle of well-versed waiters complete the picture.

Spiga d’Oro is both literally and figuratively the heart of Florida Road. It opens for breakfast – try a caffé and perfectly light and crispy crostini – and closes in the early hours of the morning. Nearly two decades on (although originally located in the then-fashionable CBD), it is a much-loved Durban institution fiercely supported by locals. Share the love and start with communal starters like focaccia topped with Parma ham, marinated aubergine, Philadelphia cream cheese and rocket, suppli or meatballs before entering the extensive realm of moreish pastas (which come in two portion sizes) and pizzas. Book ahead to secure a table in the pretty off-street piazza.

It’s all super-stylish at Mark Gold. Technically not in Florida Road, it lies at the top of the street where it curves into Innes Road and overlooks the sprawling lawns of Mitchell Park. A contemporary jewellery store dominates the interior but a covered veranda and strip of AstroTurf constitute a coffee shop with a smattering of tables. Coffee is the main attraction here (the cappuccinos are exemplary) as the ladies-who-lunch brigade prefers calories in caffeine. Don’t underestimate the light meals that take the form of salads and open toasties. Simplicity is a winning formula in fresh salad with lashings of Parma ham and a homemade dressing, or toasted rye topped with roast beef, onion jam and horseradish sauce.

Right next door is Harvey’s. It has a sense of drama thanks to waiters in bustier-styled waistcoats, golden ceilings, decadent cocktails and its equally opulent and OTT décor. This is complemented by a menu of contemporary classics, and chef-patron Andrew Draper indulges his epicurean nature with dishes like steamed tiger prawns served with a granadilla and mirin dip, or deboned, roasted quails stuffed with smoked aubergine and served with a balsamic and hazelnut hollandaise. The wine list is a well-contemplated collection and there is a great value light luncheon menu.

Czar is the best cocktail spot on Florida Road. Go Asian and team your tipple of choice with mouth-sized morsels from the sushi, tempura and dumpling selection. For afters, Wakaberry frozen yoghurt bar offers an extensive array of delicious flavours from green tea to pomegranate, plus toppings.

Essentially a bar that packs them in on weekends, House of Curries offers great street-style Durban curries. The versions are endless and come wrapped in rotis, enveloped in bunny chow or, simply, with rice. And if you’re after a casual light meal, then pop into Europa Café as quality-conscious, hands-on owners have elevated it above standard franchise status.