South African winemakers are refreshingly down to earth. I’ve spent the better part of the past decade touring the hallowed vineyards of Europe, where you sometimes feel like you are walking round a museum. So I’ve really enjoyed meeting the earthy characters behind the best SA wines – preferably in front of the braai over a glass or two!

The stories of the characters behind these wines are fascinating. These guys, and increasing numbers of gals, are passionate about what they do and making wines that are complex, interesting and expressive of where they come from. I hit the road and visited two of the country’s most exciting winemakers…

Adi Badenhorst, Paardeberg, Swartland

Nothing can quite prepare you for the whirlwind that is Adi Badenhorst. Within five minutes of meeting him I am sitting in his bakkie being driven at top speeds along bumpy dirt tracks through his vineyards, young son clambering around and two clearly beserk dogs running in front. Adi hands me a litre plastic carton and tells me to swig. It’s full of his latest noble late harvest wine and it’s delicious.

The former winemaker of Rustenburg bought this land, in the wild heartland of the Paardeberg, three years ago and is clearly loving his new life as Bohemian country hobo and the freedom it gives him to experiment. There is a real back to basics feel of the place, the winery really just a small shed with a few vats, and the vineyards full of scrubby old bush vines with an average age of 40 years.

“I really liked this farm – it had magnificent vines and a humbleness and gentleness to it”, says Adi, who lives on the farm with his wife and two small children. He is busy replanting some sections with Chenin Blanc, Shiraz and Grenache. His philosophy is to produce natural wines with as little interference as possible, crushing the whole bunches of grapes by foot. “I don’t want to make perfect wines, but wines with character”, he says.

There are two ranges: the AA Badenhorst Family red and white blends, both oozing personality and elegance (around R210) and the second wine, Secateurs, featuring a Chenin Blanc, a red blend and a rosé (between R45-R60.)

Alex Starey, Keermont Vineyards, Blaauwklippen Valley, Stellenbosch

The stunning views from the top of the Keermont vineyard make the long drive and getting lost several times on the way more than worth it.

Alex Starey (pictured), who is just releasing the first wines from this new estate, grew up around the corner where his father was a farmer and he used to cycle to the vineyards and dream of one day making wine there.

“I’ve always believed there was amazing potential here and as I learned more about wine through studying it at Stellenbosch University I became more convinced of it”, he said.

So when he heard the plot, a former mineral water bottling plant, had been bought and the new owner Mark Wraith wanted to make wine he immediately picked up the telephone.

He could hardly believe his luck when he got the job as winemaker. After years learning his craft in wine regions such as Priorat in Spain, and Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley in France, he was coming back home.

It can be hard to escape work as Alex lives in a house behind the winery with his wife and baby, but he says the lifestyle makes it worthwhile. And if he needs some space he grabs his surfboard and heads to the beach.

Creating wines from scratch is like being given the gift of a blank artist’s canvas, says Alex. He is inspired by the elegant styles of Shiraz of the Rhône Valley but wants to make wines that are uniquely South African, and uniquely from the Blaauwklippen Valley.

Unusually, he is in charge of both viticulture and the winemaking and this fits his vision that a really great wine is made in the vineyard. He says: “The wines must have character and be something that I would want to have with dinner!”

Very small quantities of the maiden wines have been made and they are almost sold out – the Keermont red blend 2007 (around R200) which has lovely depth and elegance, and a 2008 Syrah (R140) which has a lovely freshness and drinkability. There are plans for a white blend and a dessert wine.

By Claire Hu