Three of my favourite Spanish dishes are bacalhao fritters, fried milk and Jamón, and I managed to fit all of them in one day.

I achieved this by sneaking out of the office the week before the 2012 issue of Eat Out goes to print – I have always said I am the luckiest girl! On Sunday I arrived in rainy Madrid with three other food journalists. Straight off the plane, we headed to Mas Gourmet, an indoor tapas market.

Of course, I veered directly towards the bacalhao hole in the wall. The kiosk was dripping with all sorts of fritters: soft, melt-in-the-mouth crunchy balls with the creamiest, salty filling – perfect with a glass of fino. We munched delicate slices of octopus (off paper plates) drizzled with an extra virgin olive oil that oozed the taste of banana. Definitely bringing some of that back!

Then, after travelling far up north into the mountains, we stood with a producer and his 15 000 Jamóns (Ibérico, serrano and mangalica breeds) all aging with perfect surrounds of fat. We ate slice after slice of this sweet, dark ham with a creamy layer of fat and glasses of Rioja.

For lunch yesterday we had lunch at a Michelin-starred country style restaurant in Logroño, where just about everything is prepared from the veggie garden and the orchard. I had to be prised away from the eight varieties of tomatoes, peppers, cardoons, and yellow and purple beans to sample macaroons filled with blood sausage; scallop tartare with a sweet young leek sauce; lamb fillet with sweetbreads and brinjal; sea bass with a touch of soy; and fried milk. I had some of the latter again last night at the tapas bar too: chilled set custard, caramelised in a little sugar and butter.

Today we’re visiting a cheese producer, and then we’re off to Barcelona. I can’t wait! Yes, to visit the markets and speciality food shops, but hopefully a little Zara too.
 
I don’t know where I get my eating stamina, but I as soon as I send off this mail I’m heading back out. Last night on the way to dinner I eyed the churro stand with its crispy, deep-fried batter, rolled in sugar, served with a cup of thick hot chocolate. I might just fit in some Ibérico too.

Happy eating!
Abigail
 
Photograph: Gallo