Spherification and sous vide virtuoso Richard Carstens has left behind the world of molecular gastronomy in favour of something simpler, but no less innovative, in his latest role as executive chef at Tokara.

‘There has been a definite evolution of my food over the last five years,’ elaborates Carstens. ‘This menu is a continuation of what I wanted to achieve at Nova. I'm harking back to the Franco-Japanese cuisine I became known for early in my career.’

Characterised by its use of seasonal, terroir-driven produce, Tokara's new bill of fare is interspersed with playful, post-modern touches such as Carsten's re-interpretation of former chef Etienne Bonthuys's signature beef fillet with bone marrow and red-wine sauce.

Echoing the minimally stylish décor of the wood and glass embellished interior, there's not an ounce of overstatement on the menu, which reads more like a haiku than a flowery love sonnet. Don't be fooled by the modest descriptions, though, as Carstens' meticulously laid-out plates are unadulterated art.

The deceptively straightforward-sounding chicken-liver, brioche, mange tout, beetroot and hibiscus, for example, turns out to be a geometric landscape of brioche squares topped with velvety quenelles of liver parfait, towering over dainty cubes of Parmesan-topped beetroot and rivulets of chlorophyll.

‘It's all about elevating the inherent aesthetic of the ingredient,’ says Carstens, when I ask him to explain his vision for Tokara's food.

Perhaps the clearest illustration of Carstens' ethos can be seen in his watermelon carpaccio. It’s ‘the new kid in the crèche’, and doffs a chef’s hat to Mugaritz Restaurant's revered chef Andoni Luis Aduriz. Through an elaborately laborious – and top-secret – process, Carstens manages to render the melon's juicy crunch into a texture of tender meatiness, which intensifies the unmistakable sweetness. The result is a facsimile of rare slivers of beef.

This dish also give Carstens the chance to showcase Tokara's olive oil, seeing him turn the golden liquid into solid, white rocks, as well as a custard, which perfectly complements the watermelon, along with squares of balsamic jelly, dollops of pine-nut pudding and micro nasturtium leaves.

As can be expected, Carstens' selection of desserts are typically tongue-in-cheek and enjoyable, featuring quirky renditions of classics such as tiramisu and Cape brandy tart, as well as the concisely phrased textures of chocolate – a horizontal vista of cocoa encompassing set and frozen mousses, truffles, sponges, soil and honeycomb.

‘I'm turning to nature for my inspiration,’ says Carstens looking out over Tokara's sprawling vineyards. ‘The modern primitives,’ he adds obliquely.

Carstens is reluctant to say what he means by the aforementioned phrase. We'll just have to watch the space at Tokara – there are certainly worse ways to while away the time.

By Annette Klinger

Go to the listing for more food pictures.