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The judges of the Eat Out Restaurant Awards

We catch up with the Eat Out Restaurant Awards judges Peter Goffe-Wood, Arnold Tanzer and Abigail Donnelly. Malu Lambert asks them what theyre looking for this year, what the industry means to them, and about the momemt when they knew they were a foodie.

Meet Peter
Peter Goffe-Wood has been a chef for over 20 years, has worked for several award-winning restaurants in London, and opened La Couronne Hotel and Winery in Franschhoek. He is currently the chef patron of Wild Woods in Hout Bay, owns PGW Eat (a food consultancy), and runs the Kitchen Cowboy cooking workshops. He is also the author of two books and the chef ambassador of the Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative (SASSI). This is Peter’s fifth year as an Eat Out judge.

I knew I was a foodie… soon after I became a wino.

The food I can’t live without… is food made and shared with loved ones around the kitchen table.

What does the restaurant industry mean to you?
I suppose the honest answer is that it’s my life. When you enter this industry, it’s almost impossible to close the door on it at 5pm on a Friday and simply return to it on Monday morning. So, even on the odd day off I invariably find myself either in a restaurant or cooking at home – there’s no rest for the wicked – but I wouldn’t have it any other way. I have been very fortunate in my career to have worked for, and with, some fabulous people in some equally fabulous establishments. I wouldn’t change it for the world.

Do you believe awards uplift the industry?
I think awards are important as they acknowledge the establishments that have gone above and beyond their peers. They should be recognised for their hard work.

Are you looking for anything in particular this year?
I think that we look for the same things every year – consistency in the restaurants that we revisit and passion and integrity in the new ones. What new trends have you noticed? As usual, there is a tendency to replicate rather than innovate – first it was deconstruction, then molecular gastronomy and now we are besotted with sous vide. The resultant euphoria over this rather precise discipline is more boil-in-a-bag than true sous vide.

We need to travel overseas to work in restaurants that use and understand these technologies, not just buy a couple of books and make it up as we go along.

Does it help to be a chef when it comes to the judging?
I certainly think it helps but I don’t think it’s essential – we’re looking at the overall restaurant experience, not just at the food in isolation. I can’t play football worth a damn but I know enough about the game to know when I’ve seen a good one.

 

 

Meet Arnold
Arnold Tanzer
is the owner of food consultancy Food on the Move. He’s also vice president of the South African Chefs Association (SACA) and continental director on behalf of the World Association of Chefs Societies. In 2005 he represented South Africa at the Bocuse d’Or, and was named the Sunday Times chef of the year for 2008-2009. Arnold is the proud dad of two kids and a couple of Labradors, and the husband of the gorgeous Marion. This is Arnold’s fifth year as an Eat Out judge.

I knew I was a foodie when…I refused to eat boiled cabbage as a kid.

The food I can’t live without…. is a “just because”. I always have cold, roasted free-range chicken in the fridge. It’s great to eat, easy to pop between two crusty slices of bread with the works for a satisfying sandwich, and it’s perfect tossed over pasta with a dash of cream and Parmesan for an easy supper for the kids. And the carcass is the base for a stock.

What does the restaurant industry mean to you?
It’s where I started my career in food and holds a special spot in my heart. It has, of course, changed a lot in the 21 odd years since I started in the hospitality industry, and there’s been remarkable growth in the last five years.

Do you believe awards uplift the industry?
Yes. Any competition is good. Awards ceremonies like the Eat Out Awards are a very public forum, it means publicity for restaurateurs. Also, chefs eat at their competitors’ establishments to see what they are doing and try to emulate them. This has a knock-on effect to the delivery of service to the customer – each year chefs try to deliver a better and more creative product.

Are you looking for anything in particular this year?
As I do each year, I’m looking for the chef who shows the most talent, technique and honesty in their food. A chef who consistently delivers a world-class dish of food that is true to South Africa, from the region they’re in to the raw produce they use.

What new trends have you noticed?
Keeping it real. In the current economy, perhaps it’s natural to return to basic ingredients. This isn’t about retro, or comfort food or even cost. It’s about determining the essentials and pure, simple, clean and sustainable food.

Does it help to be a chef when it comes to the judging?
Sure, we have an insight into the professional kitchen that the average diner doesn’t have – from techniques to costing, seasonal products and the latest trends. Chefs probably eat out more than the average person does, so they are more aware of what the trends are, the quality that’s around, what in season. However, at the end of the day, the restaurant makes its money from the public, so as a judge, you have to be aware of the commercial value of the product being sold and that the chef is trying to make a living.

 

 

Meet Abigail
Abigail Donnelly
is Eat Out’s editor and food editor of Woolworths TASTE. She not only loves writing about food, but lives it and dreams about it too. Her accolades include winning the Galliova Award for best food writer four times. Her free time is spent with husband Terry (who cooks every night) and their two boys: Jack, who knows exactly what good service is and Matthew, who eats everything with relish.

I knew I was a foodie when…I was nine. I made a mean spaghetti bolognaise! And then when I was recognised by my peers when I won the Galliova food writer of the year for the first time.

The food I can’t live without…is my weekly portion of lamb-on-the-bone curry with a soft, paper-thin roti.

What does the restaurant industry mean to you?
It began when food became a passion for me. Then my entire life became filled by it, whether it was eating, cooking, reading or travelling. It naturally evolved into understanding exactly what the chefs, restaurateurs and eating public need. It really is me. It’s the lifestyle I’m committed to.

Do you believe awards uplift the industry?
Definitely. We need to be recognised and inspired when we do our best, especially by our peers. It assists us in striving for excellence. It’s about paying tribute to the restaurant industry.

Are you looking for anything in particular this year?
For me, it’s about that element of surprise – the wow factor. Who is delivering their exact philosophy on the plate without mimicking anyone? It’s about quality, commitment, dedication and consistency. It’s the emotional component of the dish, the taste. While flavours and textures frequently command the most attention during a dining experience, it is so often the subtle care taken with food that sets great restaurants apart from good ones. There is a standard to what is good, what is great, and what is spectacular. And I’m looking for the best dessert ever!

What new trends have you noticed?
Chefs and restaurateurs are raising their standards and continuing to search for better produce. They are also being imaginative by blending noble ingredients with the more simple ones. Simplicity is not always simple. This year chefs are foraging – it’s the new word for seasonal and sustainable, from fish-cheek bouillabaisse to waterbessie confit with slivers of foie gras.

Does it help to be a chef when it comes to judging?
On one hand I think it does, as it is very important to understand the dynamics of running an establishment. Although, judging a restaurant is an experience that is created by the way all the elements work together – the service, the ambience, the food and the wine. You need to understand exactly what the chef’s philosophy is and how it is showcased on the plate. And also how it’s executed, whether it’s about classic sauces, impressive artistry or menus boasting carefully selected high-quality ingredients to produce unique flavour combinations.

Theres a fourth judge this year, and her name is Anna Trapido. Read more about her, here.

By Malu Lambert

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