Much like its movie namesake, VickyCristina’s tapas bar and Spanish restaurant is simultaneously dark, brooding and alluring. It is also the most recent jewel in Umhlanga’s culinary crown as the growing seaside town attracts an increasing number of new restaurants, plus established ones that are following the inevitable migration north.

The people
The first VickyCristina’s opened in November last year on Umhlanga Ridge. “It was the original concept store that was more a coffee shop selling cocas and sandwiches and a small selection of tapas. It was the pilot store and the big stores developed from there,” explains consultant Pino Canderle, who is instantly recognisable to the well-fed as the owner of La Lampara restaurant in the Midlands.

“This is the most exciting project I’ve had in years. The team and the people behind it are so dynamic and so passionate. The store’s got a great soul because everyone has given it a lot of thought and all the detail comes together as a unit.

“There has been a great response. For the majority of people, it’s a new experience and the feedback is that they really enjoy it. They embrace the idea, but I thought it would be more difficult… that it would be an education process. Also, what I find pleasing it that people are prepared to try the very traditional dishes likes potato with chorizo and tortilla. On average, people are eating two-and-a-half to three dishes each,” Pino explains.

The food
The spotlight falls firmly on tapas. The most popular dishes have proved to be the crispy baby calamari, chicken skewers spiced with cumin and paprika, and verduras a la plancha (grilled artichoke hearts with cherry tomatoes, aubergine and mushrooms). Traditional tapas options include tortilla, paella, albondigas (meatballs), cured meats and pan-fried sardines.

Specials run on a monthly basis and are seasonally inspired, so winter could bring with it a traditional garlic, chorizo and egg soup; sautéed lamb kidneys with cous cous; flans; or a raisin and ricotta empanada.

The restaurant also specialises in cocas, a Catalonian flatbread similar to pizza. Cocas are unique in flavour and texture, being scented with fragrant Spanish spices like paprika, cumin and nutmeg and garnished with fresh herbs or flowers. VickyCristina’s menu offers some unusual combinations of traditional ingredients including pomegranate, fig and almonds. Traditional pizza toppings are also featured as Spain and Italy share a love for Mediterranean favourites like olives, cheese and peppers.

The wine
In keeping with the ethos of sampling and experimenting, everything on the well-contemplated wine list (which includes some Spanish options) is available by the glass. They also do sangria.

The service
The young, enthusiastic and well-versed team dispenses recommendations and delivers waves of tapas with ease.

The ambience
The moody black-hued interior is lifted with blasts of red and yellow. A collection of mirrors and ornately framed images lend an air of drama and tables are given a slightly formal treatment with crisp white linen and napery. A small conveyor belt is not designed for sushi-styled help-yourself; rather it is a pick up point for waiters and allows patrons a preview of dishes with which they may be unfamiliar.

The verdict
With its heady mix of traditional tapas, contemporary cuisine and dramatic décor, the VickyCristina’s concept has given the eating out scene in Umhlanga a blast of fresh air. The clever concept is set to spread – look out for the Florida Road restaurant and bar that is due to open by the end of May.

By Tracy Gielink

Have you been to VickyCristina’s? Write a review.