When we heard that 2013 Eat Out DSTv Food Network Restaurant Awards judge and renowned chef Liam Tomlin was moving Chefs Warehouse, his cooking school and shop, to Bree Street in Cape Town, we rejoiced that a part of our after-work kuier spot, the now-defunct Caveau, was occupied once more. Our excitement doubled when Liam opened up his adjoining canteen, which is a rather understated, casual word that belies the quality of the fare on offer. We grabbed a stool at the street-side counter one hot day to try it out.

Food

Lunchtime options on the ever-changing menu include balls of the day (beef balls stroganoff with potato rösti), fish of the day (pan-fried swordfish with tapenade), soup of the day (onion and cider with gruyère toast) and leg of the day (roast leg of lamb with caponata and roast potato). While debating these options, we spy a bowl of calamari on its way to a neighbouring table and discover that it’s part of the day’s tapas selection for two (at R260). Prompted by our decision-making crisis, we opt for this spread instead.

The eight tapas dishes flow over their large wooden tray in a parade of mini copper pots, steaming baskets and slate plates. We can’t quite believe this generosity, considering what you get at other city tapas spots for twice the price. It turns out those coveted crispy calamari tentacles are served on a fresh Asian salad with chilli for a lovely hit of heat. The very saucy butternut risotto is as good as pudding and the slow-braised beef short-rib (served with baby potatoes and a slice of corn on the cob) boasts a delicious layer of crispy fat and tender layers beneath. The second red meat dish, two slivers of expertly cooked lamb on a chunky onion, tomato and brinjal sauce, is rich and very satisfying. A nice surprise is a dish of ‘pork lard’, the tasty morsels of which are set off by a light and crunchy salsa.

A few of the dishes leave us a bit perplexed, though. Seared tuna sashimi comes with tuna ‘confit’, which is pale and interesting, but doesn’t compare all that well to its vivacious, fresh and gleaming friend. Our duck-pancake combo, while flavourful, has no sweet, sticky sauce to help it along, and the smoked trout blini with sour cream is ordinary.

But back to those soaring moments… For dessert, the lemon posset is an utter delight: the creamy, vanilla-studded pudding is topped with fresh raspberries and lemon zest, and a warm raspberry syrup is drizzled over at the table. We scoop every last crumb of the excellent chocolate fondant – gleamingly gooey inside and crisp outside – out of a darling mini copper pot. (We’ll have to try the third dessert option, Baileys coffee parfait with praline and sabayon, next time.)

Drinks

Deluxe coffee comes in cool clear-glass cups, with the menu also offering an affogato option (a scoop of ice cream topped with espresso). Unusual alcohol options include Dragon Fiery Ginger Beer, Liefmans Fruitesse, CBC Amber Weiss (made in Klapmuts), Dalla Cia Premium Grappa and Sir George Brandy (from Napier Winery). There’s a good wine selection of special bottles for the discerning and a dozen easy-drinking wines are available by the glass. Beware of ordering sparkling water though: it’ll cost you R24 for a small bottle.

Service

The staff might tend towards brusqueness, but service is quick and that counts for a lot at any busy city bowl spot. Overly attentive, saccharine service wouldn’t suit the masculine setting anyway.

Ambience

On summer days and evenings, grab a seat outside. The simple wooden counters and high stools are sturdy and comfortable enough to support you for two hours without you even noticing – an impressive feat. Menus are printed on rice paper clipped onto sushi rolling mats, lending a minimalist Asian vibe to it all. Inside is split into two main rooms: a dark, cool dining area lined with shelves of exotic cooking ingredients – rose water, oils, salt, coconut milks and obscure sauces – and a room of kitchenware on the other side with neat arrangements of top-quality knives and heavy saucepans. The best part? The books! One wall is dedicated to rows of highly desirable food bibles. Bring your credit cards, folks – or be good and hope for a gift-card come Christmas.

The verdict

Our editor, Abigail Donnelly, loves it, and so do we.

Have you been to Chefs Warehouse and Canteen? Let us know what you thought by writing a quick review.