“Wow, I’d forgotten how good they are!” We’re munching on crispy duck pancakes at Kitima, and I’m not referring to a previous visit to the restaurant, but the brief time between finishing my last pancake and constructing my second one. Crispy, crunchy skin and sweet duck sauce, all rolled up in paper-thin pancakes: they are unbelievably good.

Winner of the best Asian restaurant at the 2011 Eat Out DStv Food Network Restaurant Awards, Kitima is no run-of-the-mill Thai restaurant. Earlier on, we oohed and ahhed over fluffy barbecued pork buns – filled with tangy, tender pork – and chicken satays with peanut sauce to die for. (I may have slurped the leftover sauce…)

For dessert, we’re blown away by hot spring rolls filled with creamy Lindt chocolate, and the chocolate chilli martini, which frankly tastes more like liquid chocolate mousse than a cocktail.

“We wanted to create a fine dining restaurant serving Thai cuisine,” explains the restaurant’s namesake and joint owner, Kitima Sukonpongpao. Kitima runs the restaurant along with sister Eed Sukonpongpao-Harbich and brother-in-law Tim Harbich. “We are a real family business,” she says with a chuckle.

The story started after Kitima took two trips to South Africa. “I really enjoyed the holidays,” she recalls. When a friend who was running a restaurant wanted to sell, she jumped at the opportunity, moving to South Africa twelve years ago, and taking on the job, “I didn’t have any experience running a restaurant!” she exclaims.

Some time later, the first Kitima restaurant – Kitima Eastern Eatery – opened in Gardens, but after two years, the Kronendal venue became available. “Once we saw the Kronendal Homestead we all fell in love with it instantly,” explains brother-in-law Tim. The estate dates from the 1670s, when it was the first farm in Hout Bay, and the building – which dates from a little later – is the last remaining example of H-plan Cape Dutch Architecture in the Cape, and a National Monument.

Today, it’s been beautifully refurbished: wood carvings, red silk drapes and even a Bangkok river boat adorn the walls, while lights twinkle, creating a warm, romantic atmosphere in the old colonial building.

So what should you absolutely not miss out on? Tim recommends coming early and enjoying an aperitif – perhaps a Strawberry Rose Martini – in the beautiful Raya Bar. (Cocktails are fabulous, with plenty of unusual combos to choose from.) “Start off with a fabulous tom yum goong (traditional Thai soup with prawns) and follow with our signature crispy duck served with pancakes.” He recommends finishing off with a chocolate-chilli mousse for dessert and then an espresso martini back at the bar.

From the end of May, there should also be some new specialities to try. Top Thai chef Arnon Marsalong – or Chef Kent as he’s called – joined the team in February, and the team is busy tasting some exciting new dishes to add to the menu, from Thai-style yellowtail carpaccio to mushroom and lamb shank peanut curry. Fear not, though, the duck pancakes will not be going anywhere!

When you depart, don’t be surprised if you see an empty table laid with silver service in the foyer. Legend has it that the Kronendal is haunted by the ghosts of Elsa Cloete and her lover. The beautiful daughter of Daniel Cloete, who owned the homestead between 1835 and 1849, Elsa fell in love with a British soldier. After their love was thwarted, and the soldier reputedly hanged himself from an oak tree, Elsa died of a broken heart. “We have a special table at the foyer where we serve food and wine for the ghosts every night,” explains Tim.

Apart from the historic location, the suburb seems to have been a good choice. “We did some research on what customers were looking for,” says Kitima. They identified a gap in the market for a fine dining restaurant for Hout Bay, Llandudno and Constantia residents.

As for the ghosts, they don’t seem to be disrupting service too much. Today, it’s advisable to book at least a week and a half ahead. “I personally believe that Elsa is very happy since we restored the building to its original beauty, and she’s keeping us safe too,” says Tim.

Have you been to Kitima? Tell us what you thought here.

By Katharine Jacobs