Fast facts 

Restaurant name: Toebroodjie

Address: 1 Andringa Street, Stellenbosch

Phone number: 066 272 4648

Opening times: Tuesdays to Thursdays 10am to 7pm, Fridays and Saturdays 10am to 9pm, Sundays 9am to 4pm

Average price of a main course: R45 to R125

Corkage fee: R100

Parking situation: Street

Food type: Sandwiches

Best for: Whether you sit down or take away, Toebroodjie takes the humble sandwich to a new level, ideal for a quick tummy filler crammed with flavour.

Food

The lunchbox sandwiches of our youth were not among the most creative, but even so there can be fond memories of peanut butter and golden syrup on government white; tuna mayo was common, cheese spread, even fish paste, elevated with shredded lettuce. Imagination might have been lacking back then, but sooner or later we learn that just about anything can be put between two slices of bread (three if it’s a dagwood) with delicious results. Chef Hilde-Lee Olivier has taken the ideas and run with them, making Afrikaans traditions the heroes, and executing them with Asian flair.

 

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The most crucial ingredient is the bread. Hilda makes shokupan – Japanese milk bread – and it is heavenly, a thing of beauty. The size and thickness is slightly intimidating at first, but it is marshmallow soft, equally good toasted or plain, and you do not have to unhinge your jaw. It holds fillings like good old-fashioned Eggy Mayo (Kewpie of course) or cheese. The Big Boi is a vegetarian triumph with potato rösti (carbs on carbs FTW), haloumi, roasted peppers and peppadew aioli. The overall winner of the day though was the Chicken Sando. The “crumbed chicken” described on the menu doesn’t begin to explain how crunchy and crispy it is. It’s dressed with mild peri-peri, lettuce and cucumber pickles. Warning: this can get messy.

There’s a big selection of side dishes (or starters, you decide). The deceptively simple coal-roasted sweet potato with sour cream is wonderful with its charred skin giving depth of flavour, and the Vark Wang (pork cheek; most of these dishes are named in Afrikaans with descriptions in English and about time too if French and Italian restaurants can do that) is glazed with teriyaki and melts in your mouth. Go totally retro with Devilled Eggs, or a broodjie with salted Lays chips but made modern with jalapeño cream cheese.

 

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There is but one dessert, chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream, but that’s all you need.

Drinks

It’s Stellenbosch so of course there is wine – although the small list covers a far wider area. For example, Newton Johnson Pinot Noir, Chenin from Rijks in Tulbagh, and Ghost Corner Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc from the Cederberg. With one of each varietal on offer, Toebroodjie seems to have picked its favourites. Fully licensed, there are beers and spirits (double brandy and Coke specials), hot and cold drinks.

Service 

It was a quiet and rainy late-winter day so booking wasn’t necessary. The service was super friendly, but a touch on the slow side. However, this didn’t detract from the overall experience, which was comfortable and homely. The stars of the show, the sarmies, came out quickly.

Ambience

For a relatively small venue, with a lot of space given over to the entrance – which is a shop selling Japanese products and ingredients, and some crates of fresh produce (get your shallots here) – there is a light and spacious feel. From the first room, you move into a second – a dining room if you will, with a welcome fireplace – and beyond that, a cosy little lounge area. Behind the service counter, a non-traditional pass, is the kitchen where Hilde-Lee works her magic. There are tables on the pavement too, which are going to rock in summer. No spoilers, but pop into the bathrooms for a Japanese-South African vibe…

 

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Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here.

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