Fast facts

Food type: Fine dining

Average price of a main course: Chefs Choice Sharing Menu R495 (R995 with wine pairing)

Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday 5pm to 11pm

Corkage fee: N/A

Parking: Curbside parking available.

Food

To wake up the taste buds while you peruse the menu, house-baked sourdough served with salt, pepper and house-made butter in a pretty little charcoal pot does the trick. If you don’t opt for the chef’s choice on the day, the knowledgeable waiters will help you curate a  customised selection.

The selection of plates is organised loosely into smaller portions to start with, a couple of pizzas, and then heavier dishes at the end. On the changing menu you might find baby potatoes with dill and sour cream; toast with Italian nduja (spreadable spicy sausage), Spanish boquerones (anchovies) and ricotta; and baby gem with Granny Smith apple, baby turnip, shallot and Jerusalem artichokes. Mains could be simple, such as pork with cabbage and jus or line fish with fennel, bacon and lentils.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by ëlgr restaurant (@elgr.restaurant)

There are also plenty of options for vegetarians. One such dish is the aubergine with yoghurt, thyme and mint: creamy, smokey and perfectly tender, but with enough substance in its crispy, chewy skin to provide a delicious counterpart. And the generosity! Pine nuts are something usually gingerly sprinkled in a dish, but here they liberally decorate the plate. The rich dressing makes it a beautiful dish and worthy of being recommended by the waiter, as indeed it was.

For mains you might be tempted by the bavette with apricot butter and green beans. Not to take anything away from the perfectly cooked beef, but the beans steal the show – they’re flavoursome with a slight bite, just-charred and swimming in the steak’s shimmering juices. Apricot butter glossily dresses the jewel-toned cuts with its tasty crust.

To end off, the vanilla tart with a layer of fig in the crust is sweet and simple. Other dessert options might include apple cookie pie with browned butter ice cream, Mooivallei gouda with honey and hazelnuts, or Paris-Brest with coffee and chocolate cremeux.

Drinks

The drinks list is bound to keep you busy for a while – deciding and drinking! Cocktails are surprising, evocative and creative. It’s evident there’s a passion for play here, with various elixirs like buchu-infused absinthe, oolong, and sancho berry and spice syrup appearing alongside Monkey Shoulder in the intriguing Passionate Primate. The waiter will be able to advise which cocktails are heavier than others for those who want to pace themselves. The selection definitely invites another visit to try them all.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by ëlgr restaurant (@elgr.restaurant)

The wine list also shows impressive care and flair. A wine cellar is on display at the entrance and sparkling glasses are arranged on shelves almost as décor, showing the importance of the vine at this venue. They take pleasure in sourcing small-batch releases and interesting local wines. The selection changes often, with a special sommelier’s selection showing some vertical tastings and special, older-vintage (1978, 1984, 2006) vinotech options.

Service

Servers are knowledgeable about the menu’s terms and cooking techniques.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by ëlgr restaurant (@elgr.restaurant)

Ambience

ëlgr’s courtyard with its trailing vines and leaves is gorgeous, even in winter, with a very special atmosphere. The seating inside feels luxurious and simple without being sparse. The smooth, dark greys and shining glass work together to produce a welcoming effect, with leather, softer textiles and crackling fires evoking a seductive den.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by ëlgr restaurant (@elgr.restaurant)

Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here.