This gem of a Turkish restaurant is still going strong, serving up the kind of soul-warming food that will restore your faith in dining out. Katharine Jacobs revisits Anatoli in Green Point.
The range of Turkish starters – displayed on a tray – are all tempting, and could form a meal in themselves. Pick a plate of lamb koftas and fried halloumi and mop up the hummus or taramasalata with a piping hot flatbread. But save room for the moreish mains – what’s coming is even better.
We feel as if we’ve won the jackpot with a rolled deboned lamb in a ragu. It’s the kind of rich sauce you would be quite happy to eat with just the nutty rice. There are also some potatoes that have been soaking in the sauce for several hours, which we divvy up jealously. The dolma, a beef and rice mix rolled in cabbage, might sound unglamorous, but it’s beautifully spiced, and flecks of mint in the meat pair beautifully with the accompanying yoghurt.
Main portions are large – you could almost share one between two. Or do as we do, and take home the leftovers for a mindblowing breakfast.
A tray of desserts offers poached quinces with yoghurt, buttery baklava and rice pudding, amongst other things, but if you’re a chocolate fan, it’s imperative that you order the chocolate pot. It’s a beautiful, light chocolate mousse, spiced with cinnamon and star anise.
The wine list is fairly extensive and well-balanced, but the by-the-glass options are limited to a handful of cheaper house wines. Finish the meal with a glass of fresh mint tea or extremely sweet apple tea.
Dark red walls, low lighting and traditional Turkish trinkets keep the space cosy. Anatoli is great for a romantic evening with a partner, or a celebration with family or friends.
Serving staff are warm and helpful, and the food is served speedily.
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