At first glance, the menu of Guy Fieri’s new Pretoria restaurant doesn’t inspire confidence and opinions from diners have certainly been mixed. Hennie Fisher strides boldly past the mechanical bull to investigate, and finds surprisingly good burgers.
Food type: American
Average main meal: R150
Corkage: No BYO
Parking: Inside the Sun International Time Square Casino
Stars out of five: Food 4, service 3, ambience 4
The menu kicks off with a section entitled ‘Shareables’, listing items such as sashimi won-tacos, dragon chilli cheese fries, and an enormous Trash Can of Nachos, which is turned upside down at your table. A waiter kept trying to convince us that this was a good idea, but the other starters seemed just as tempting. Also on offer: less daunting starters, such as a California cobb salad, a French onion soup and chicken wings. The menu is essentially about burgers, sandwiches and ‘Big Eats’, though.
The Ringer Burger was world-class. It tasted nothing like a South African burger. A masterpiece of American invention, it’s juicy and well-prepared, featuring a crispy Rojo onion ring (Guy’s creation), Guy’s bourbon-brown-sugar BBQ sauce, melted cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion and some very finely shredded lettuce with something called Donkey sauce, all on a toasted brioche bun. This burger, with its complex flavours (or flavors, as it’s spelt here), is not to be trifled with. Served simply with a basket of delicious and creatively curly chips and a wedge of pickle, this could be one of the better burgers around.
The Angus sirloin with smashed potatoes, however, was less memorable. The staff says one has to starve for an entire day to be able to finish the legendary Bacon Mac ‘n Cheese burger, currently the best-selling item on the menu, albeit at the hefty price of R175.
There are only four desserts to choose from, but they leave little doubt as to their provenance: triple double pie, a dark chocolate whiskey cake and the cheesecake challenge – which is a New York-style cheesecake with potato chips, pretzels and hot fudge sauce. All of them could only come from the mind of Guy Fieri. The portions here are massive so we surrendered before dessert, but the staff say they can’t keep up with the demand for the cheesecake.
At present, the rather limited wine list would be the only criticism against the restaurant. No wines are sold by the glass and the list features only one sparkling wine and one MCC. Gone are the days when restaurants could only serve a small selection of average South African wines and, if the list features only 26 wines, five of them should preferably not be from Leopard’s Leap. Some of the other wines available include The Motorcycle Marvel, Cederberg Sustainable, De Grendel Merlot and Nederburg 5600 Cabernet Sauvignon.
In general, the service is attentive, friendly and accommodating. Waiters look smart in dark jeans, light denim shirts and khaki aprons.
Access to the restaurant is gained through the casino, where under-eighteens are not allowed according to gambling laws, which also means that they are not allowed in the restaurant. High tables allow for a view through the bar onto the gambling floor. The large space is painted black and there are elements that reference biker culture, such as skulls and crossbones, helmets and flames. Large TV screens, showing Guy Fieri himself in some of his cookery shows, throw a further glare over diners.
They have live music on Saturday and Sundays – mostly rock, as befits the style of the restaurant.
Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here.
We went on a night where there was live music (a Friday though) – I’m not convinced it adds successfully to the ambiance – it is not conducive to dinner banter (because you honestly can’t hear each other or the staff) which makes it feel a little forced.