In Mount Edgecombe, north of Durban, Frank’s Speakeasy serves up pub grub with a twist and some rather unusual craft beers, says Tracy Gielink.

Food

The menu at Frank’s offers perfect bar food – it’s not about reinventing the wheel, but the food is done with integrity. A good example is Frank’s Burger, which is arguably the best in town. The patty is homemade from aged, organic, free-range beef, topped with mature cheddar and served with some seriously addictive onion rings. Other signature dishes include jalapeño poppers stuffed with bolognaise, a chicken tikka pizza topped with coriander and crushed poppadums, and deboned peri-peri chicken marinated for four days.

Frank’s Speakeasy. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Drinks

Craft beers are placed on a pedestal. Some come with a high price tag, but you’re guaranteed to find something interesting you haven’t stumbled across before – like the Imperial Tequila Ale. They also offer a handpicked selection of quality South African wines – including some lesser-spotted ones and pleasing by-the-glass options – and some good single-malt whiskeys.

Service

The owners are hands on and their deceptively laidback team is perfectly competent. The menu doesn’t require much by way of explanation, but commandeer a waiter or barman to chat through the style of beer you enjoy, or ask for one that will suit the dish you’ve ordered.

Ambience

Imagine something like an upmarket man cave and you’ll get the idea. The handsome interior – dominated by metal work, exposed light bulbs, leather and wood – is super-stylish and makes clever use of a compact space. It has the mandatory television discreetly tucked above the bar, but booth seating is intimate and you’ll jostle for space most evenings. Be sure to call ahead on weekends to check if the venue is not closed for a function.

Frank’s Speakeasy. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

And…

The eatery shares owners and a kitchen with the adjacent Marco Paulo bistro, so you can also order from that menu.

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