With its new chef hitting the mark, De Kloof Restaurant offers modern fine dining, and it is already one of Tswane’s best taste experiences, according to Eat Out critic Diane de Beer.

A fancy dish at De Kloof Restaurant. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Food

The Whitlock brothers opened De Kloof a few years ago with the dream of establishing a new fine dining restaurant in Pretoria. They seem to have hit the mark with their new chef, Hugo Snyman.

Previously from Nelspruit, where he worked at Mpumalanga’s highly rated Zest, Hugo is very keen on his meat. This is a perfect match for the restaurant’s new emphasis on keeping things as fresh and quality driven as possible. They have started sourcing and processing their own carcasses; they grow their own herbs and some of their vegetables; work with free-range and hormone-free chicken; and use only fish on the SASSI green list.

A dish called “Something fishy” at De Kloof Restaurant. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

During our visit we encountered dishes playfully named Mary Had A Little Lamb, Big Bad Wolf and Birdies to designate the meat dishes. This touch of humour certainly adds a smile to the meal. The dish of apricot- and lemon-stuffed lamb loin wrapped in the belly, a lamb-head medallion, pea purée with parmesan polenta and roasted tomato for splashes of colour, gives new meaning to the head-to-tail concept, and offers texture and a variety of tastes on one plate.

Cold caprese cannelloni at De Kloof Restaurant. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The Birdies dish comprises stuffed turkey in honey bacon, delicately prepared quail, chicken popcorn and cauliflower purée with rooibos and thyme jus. The tenderness of the meat and the beautiful blending of the differently flavoured and textured birds leave an excellent impression.

Sushi at De Kloof Restaurant. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The clear star of the day, however, was the masterstock-braised pork belly, accompanied by panko-crumbed pork cheek and neck, butternut and carrot purée, apple and ginger chutney and apple glaze. The Asian flavoured stock, combined with the Japanese panko, introduces a taste spectrum that’s enhanced by the different cuts as well as the cooking methods.

This is the chef’s strength: playing with ingredients and making them perform. The result is a taste kaleidoscope on each plate. While the starters and desserts also delivered in terms of taste and quality, it’s the mains that take center stage here. This is modern fine dining, and it is already one of Tswane’s best taste experiences.

Drinks

Charl Whitlock is a smart wine man and it has always been his philosophy to find the best wine at all the price points. The offering leans heavily towards smaller boutique wines and their list is constantly changing, so ask for guidance on the night. They also have a sassy craft beer and cider selection.

The interior at De Kloof Restaurant. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Service

There have been some niggles in the past, but it’s getting better and better, the results of good training are clearly visible.

The dish known as Mrs Piggy at De Kloof Restaurant. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Ambience

Being part of a golf estate, the premises was ready-made and they have tried their best with the dining room. A bonus is the outside stoep, from which you can enjoy spectacular sunsets if you arrive at the right time. The tables are smartly dressed and they’re constantly changing the look to find the right balance for their clientele.

And…

If you’re in the mood for something more casual, slip downstairs to DK Gourmet Burger and Craft Beer Bar, which comes highly recommended.

Eat Out critics dine anonymously and pay for their meals in full. Read the editorial policy here.

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