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Review: At La Colombe it’s all about the reveal

Fast facts

Restaurant Name: La Colombe

Address: Silvermist Wine Estate, Main Road, Constantia Nek, Cape Town

Average price of a main course: Tasting menus from R995

Opening times: Monday to Sunday 12noon to 1pm and 5.30pm to 7.30pm

Parking: Secure parking on site. Be vigilant of the winding road to and from the restaurant.

Food type: Fine dining

Best for… Proposals or celebratory dinners.

Food

The journey begins in the foyer where, after being welcomed, you’re offered a giant mushroom with a removable cap that hides tasty morsels. It’s a preview of what’s to come: at La Colombe, it’s all about the reveal.

“La colombe” is French for dove and the first course is called Dove’s Nest – a literal nest containing two eggs. Remove the tiny cork, insert the straw and allow your palate to be awakened with a burst of citrus.

Image by Lisa Daubermann

Whimsical delights follow – chicken liver parfait masquerading as a glossy red cherry flecked with gold; bread surrounded by foliage, fynbos and flowers picked that morning on the slopes behind you; a charred dragon egg to be snipped open with ornate scissors; the famous tinned tuna and blind wine pairing; snow cones with frozen roses and clouds of mist and smoke. The estate honey finale is a thing of beauty.

Image by Lisa Daubermann

As dramatic and theatrical as it all is, there’s restraint too – nothing is done merely for the sake of it. Every carefully considered element combines to create the spectacular whole. All the flavours are refined and subtle, always complementary; harmonious.

Image by Lisa Daubermann

Drinks

A pairing with each course on the menu is available, as well as wines by the bottle or carafe. The wine list is extensive, running to several pages in a leather-bound book.

Service

The service on the floor echoes the kitchen ethos: calm, controlled and professional. Every dish is explained in detail and every wine’s provenance revealed.

Ambience

The dining experience is understated elegance and luxury. You feel as though you’re the only person in the restaurant even though you’re surrounded by other diners.

Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here.

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