Hennie Fisher goes to investigate an intriguing bakery in The Willows that pays tribute to our country’s diversity.

The people

Michelle Cronje-Cibulka, owner and chef at afro-boer, says her high school home economics teacher was convinced she had cheated when, out of the whole class, only her recipe worked while all the others’ failed. Michelle says she’s just always had a natural talent for cooking and baking (and now training other people to do so) – and it’s evident in every morsel that leaves her kitchen.

Michelle has undergone extensive training in artisanal bread baking from some of South Africa’s top bakers, and is so in love with our cultural diversity that she decided on the name of her business as a tribute both to the African-ness of our local context (afro) and the legacy of the Voortrekkers, whose nomadic restlessness resulted in them travelling up north from the cape (boer).

The food

For breakfast, try the baked oats with roasted hazelnuts, honey and berries, or eggs Benedict done the authentic way. For homey comfort, nothing beats dark, dense wedges of whole-wheat bread and jam with farm butter, but as South Africa’s cultural roots also stretch back to Europe, croissants (plain, almond or chocolate) and quiches are also available. Comforting meals include cauliflower soup with chilli butter and ciabatta, an array of pies, and a sublime green bean and fresh asparagus salad with caramelised pear and goat’s cheese. There are about 10 sandwich options, including a version of smoked mackerel melt on sourdough with parmesan, herbs and cream. You’ll also find a nice selection of baked goods and sweet items like biscotti and rusks to take home, apart from the usual cakes.

The drinks

A retro Coke float with a difference is offered as a dessert, comprising ice cream, chocolate ganache and sugared nuts topped with cola. The afro-boer moerkoffie, strong and sweet, also hints at a classic local beverage, while the caramel latte is a delightful addition. Cold drinks are all made from home-prepared cordials, such as the green tea and apple cooler or the vintage lemonade. Fresh smoothies include an apricot, honey, yoghurt and vanilla version and the fresh-pressed juice offering boasts options such as beetroot, pear and carrot or spinach, asparagus, apple and celery.

The service

All 22 of the permanent staff were employed via non-traditional ways; for example, one kitchen staff member was picked from her banana stall on Lynnwood Road before the café had even opened. Michelle interviewed each staff member personally and these success stories illustrate she’s ploughing back into the community. The skill and finesse of front-of-house staff give the impression that they’ve been in the industry for ages. From Godwill the barista (who has subsequently trained two additional baristas) and the friendly faces behind the large counter to the staff in the light, airy kitchen, everyone exudes an air of confidence and belonging to the afro-boer ‘family’.

The ambience

Do not expect an interior too closely associated with the name: no leopard print, khaki or ox wagons are to be found. The décor is a result of careful thought and planning. While the large veranda and white sash windows lend a South African farmhouse feel to things, the interior is slick and modern, with a pale beige and cream colour scheme that does not distract from the star of the show: the food.

Homely elements like a twig wreath above the fireplace (brought back from a road trip to the Free State) each contribute a story. The wooden blocks spelling ‘thula’, the boerpampoen in the corner and the crocheted plastic shopping bag baskets all provide a gentle reminder of SA’s diverse richness. Even the toilet facilities have quirky South African references. It’s about exploring our society’s variety and highlighting alternative views of what it means to be African and South African. This philosophy also extends to the garden, where fabulous rose bushes grow alongside coral, huilboer and thorn trees.

And…

An adjacent room, called Die Wit Olifant (still a separate shop) will in the near future be converted into a room for craft beer, beverages and wine with ethical and sustainable credentials. There are also plans underway to enlarge the already substantial gardens so that guests can pick up a basket from the counter and picnic outside on the lawn. In keeping with trends, the revised menu will offer customers some banting options in the foreseeable future, too.

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