Mad.e.leine 1 a small rich shell-shaped cake 2 something that evokes a memory

This is the dictionary description of my favourite cupcake, which has apparently been around since 1845 – in Paris, of course.

A batch of these piping hot, buttery little cakes in the classic shape of shells are simply made from a génoise batter of butter, flour, eggs, sugar and vanilla and make a perfect dunk, especially in coffee.

They were made famous by Marcel Proust in his novel Remembrance of Things Past in which he wrote, “She sent out one of those short, plump little cakes called ‘petites Madeleines’, which look as though they have been moulded in the fluted scallop of a pilgrim's shell… An exquisite pleasure had invaded my senses…”

Mini versions are on many chefs’ petit four plates in some guise, from burnt butter and bittersweet chocolate to orange and cardamom. It reminds me of Langan’s, a posh restaurant in London that I visited in the early 90s. At the end of our meal we were offered a perfectly white, starched napkin folded around a pile of freshly baked Madeleines with a ball of melting butter.

When I think about that era of eating I can’t help but remember tuile and brandy snap baskets filled with a ball of ice cream or chocolate mousse, always a sprig of mint, and some gooseberries. A friend made some tuile baskets the other night, but she nestled some of them over cups of coffee and placed a dollop of salted caramel inside. The others she filled with homemade granadilla curd that had been folded through double-cream yoghurt.

I do love the double cream variety that I’m now in the habit of having after dinner, drizzled with honey and roasted almond flakes. The cold yoghurt – it helps if it’s double cream – seems to make the texture of the honey get stickier and thicker. Just like the bowls of the same stuff that we used to eat back in the 90s on our many outings to Aris Souvlaki in Sea Point.

Such good food memories.

Someone that I would like to remember today, and dedicate a tray of madeleines to, is Oded Swartz, our pickle and preserve hero, who sadly passed away at the weekend.

Keep warm.
Abigail

Photographs: Karen Booth, Ankko Park and Stu Spivak.