The man behind Chefs Warehouse and Cookery School, Liam Tomlin is a force to be reckoned with. After beginning his cooking career as a young teen, he worked in some of the finest kitchens in Europe and Australia before moving to SA in 2004. In the wake of the release of his third recipe book, we chatted to Liam about his favourite Irish dishes, kitchen equipment to invest in, and what to make for friends coming over in 60 minutes.
How did you get into food?
I left school at 14, with very few qualifications, which made working in a kitchen an easy option. I started as a pot washer in a hotel in Dublin city centre. After six months an opportunity to start an apprenticeship arose, so that's when my career as a chef began.
What was your favourite food as a kid? Any classic Irish dishes that still tug your heartstrings?
When I was growing up Ireland had quite a small repertoire, but at home we always ate well. My mother baked fresh bread every day; we ate a lot of soups, and big hearty stews; and always had fish on a Friday – usually freshly caught Mackerel, which is still my favourite fish to this day. I do love a proper Irish breakfast and no matter what time of the day I arrive home in Dublin my mother always cooks me a full Irish breakfast with soda bread and a mug of tea.
What’s the biggest mistake you’ve ever made – or witnessed – in the kitchen?
We had a young chef start work for us at the Regent Hotel in Melbourne. On his first day he was asked to pass a 45-litre pot of Peking duck consommé (which takes two days to make). We set up the sieve with mint, coriander, Thai basil, ginger and limes for him to pass the consommé over. However, he forgot to put a pot underneath it and poured the entire pot of consommé down the sink. I only heard about it at 7pm when the first order came on. The same chap has gone on to have his own very successful restaurant and TV programme, and is the author of several cookery books in Australia.
What’s the most essential piece of equipment for aspiring cooks?
Every young chef, or anybody who enjoys cooking for that matter, should have at least three or four good knives. Well chosen and looked-after, they will last a lifetime. Young chefs should also have a few good books to refer to, such as the New Larousse Gastronomique.
What are the most common mistakes you see while teaching?
I have noticed that, with young cooks or groups of people at Chefs Warehouse, the biggest drawback to a good result in any kitchen is a lack of knowledge of very basic cooking techniques, and an uncertainty about the handling and basic preparation of every day ingredients. Solid background is essential and must produce creativity and inventiveness in the kitchen. It is very easy to serve a beautifully presented dish, but the dish will only be a success if the fish is first cleaned and filleted properly, cooked perfectly, seasoned correctly and the accompanying sauce is made from a good stock, reduced to the right consistency, finished with suitable flavours and served at the correct temperature. All of this requires practice, organisation, time and patience.
What would you make if you had friends coming over in an hour? I would make a raclette with charcuterie. The word raclette derives from the French racler, meaning ‘to scrape’. Traditionally, the Swiss cow herders used to take the cheese with them when moving cows to and from the pastures up in the mountains. In the evenings around the campfire they would place the cheese next to the fire and, when it had reached the perfect softness, scrape it on top of some bread. I’d serve my raclette with a selection of charcuterie, baby potatoes cooked in the skin, pickled onions, gherkins, steamed asparagus, crusty bread and a glass of very cold white wine.
Can everyone learn to cook, or are there some people who should only be allowed to make restaurant reservations?
I think it is very sad that some people can't cook or are not interested in cooking. I love making a reservation, but also get great enjoyment of making beautiful, simple food at home. Cooking doesn't have to be a chore if you are organised and build up a small pantry of basic ingredients that allow you to put dishes together easily and quickly.
Where are some of your favourite places to eat??
We are spoilt for choice from every spectrum of the market. I love The Test Kitchen, Bread & Wine, The Common Room at Le Quartier Français, Bistrot Bizerca, The Roundhouse inside and out (Rumbullion) for two different experiences, Burrata for great Italian food, and Nobu. For a more casual and fun evening, I like Fat Cactus (Park Road), The Power and the Glory or La Boheme in Sea Point. I really enjoy all the various markets opening around town, from the Biscuit Mill and Harbour Market in Hout Bay to the new V&A Market on the Wharf at the Waterfront. For bread and great coffee, I go to Jason on Bree Street, for meat to Frankie Fenner Meat Merchants on Kloof Street, and for fish to Southern Cross.
Try Liam’s recipe for barbeque pork. His new cookbook, Lessons with Liam (published by Human & Rousseau) is available from all good bookstores for R350.
By Katharine Jacobs