Thali was named number 16 in South Africa at the 2017 Eat Out Mercedes-Benz Restaurant Awards. To find out why, watch the video and read the review below.

Food

This is a stellar culinary experience inspired by the tastes, sights and scents of India. Opened by Liam Tomlin (of Chefs Warehouse fame) and with head chef John van Zyl in the kitchen, Thali presents diners with an eastern voyage through a set tapas menu ranging from sambals, poppadoms and tandoor, and leading through to the curries, which are the jewel in the culinary crown of the experience.

A few dishes at Thali. Photo supplied.

The meal is presented in stages, each course perfectly designed to lead to the next and whet the palate in anticipation of what’s to come. The cauliflower done three ways – puréed, grilled and raw – is an elegant twist on this humble vegetable and is a firm favourite on the menu. The tandoor oven churns out the most succulent and deeply smoky meats, including chicken and lamb cooked to tender, aromatic perfection.

The fish course, which changes according to seasonal availability, continues to shine new light on combining strong spice combinations with seafood. Sometimes subtle, often robust, the spice profile changes depending on the type of fish. Most of the dishes err on the side of subtlety to maintain a lighter and more modern style of cooking, but the parting shot of the meal, the traditional curry presentation, is a veritable smorgasbord of authentic-tasting curries, all of which pack a resounding punch. The unctuous lamb curry, with hints of turmeric and saffron, and the chicken curry served in a fragrant green coriander sauce, are both elevated classics typical of chef John’s inimitable style.

Much like Chefs Warehouse, the tapas for two takes one on a beautifully curated eating journey but, in place of fusion cooking tactics, a light is shone on the depth of Indian flavours.

The naan bread at Thali. Photo supplied.

Drinks

Expect a fine selection of wines, all of which have been chosen to complement the aromatic profile of the dishes on offer. Chenin, pinot noir and shiraz complement the menu rather well. You will also find lassis and an array of cocktails, some of which include one of the Indian mother spices shaken or stirred into the mix, for something truly different.

Service

The staff are impeccably trained and have a comprehensive knowledge of myriad dishes and techniques employed throughout the service – a commendable feat, given the complexity of the preparation process. Remaining true to a high-end dining experience, the wait staff all juggle levity with professionalism and provide an effortless background to the pure enjoyment of dining at Thali.

Ambience

Thali is broken up into three distinct sections – the main front-of-house dining area, the middle section overlooking the drama of the kitchen, and the outside courtyard. The three spaces are all designed with a unique décor emphasis, but all offer the diner a dimly lit and deeply romantic inner city escape wherein the food, as always, takes pride of place. With coppers, ambers, reds, lacquered blacks and browns – the setting is moody yet warm and inviting. The tables are small and close to one another, lending an air of intimacy to the collective experience. As ever, being close to the action and grabbing a seat in the kitchen display area is always entertaining. The outside area, festooned with twinkling lights, lanterns and blossoming bougainvillea, is the prized location.

The interior at Thali. Photo supplied.

And…

Chilli phobes, fear not: Thali draws the very fine distinction of aromatic versus spicy and all the chilli comes on the side. The whole experience can be made purely vegetarian, which is a fabulous alternative. Also be warned, Thali does not take bookings, so be sure to arrive in time and get your name on the list. It is indeed well worth the wait!

See all 30 of the nominees for the 2017 Eat Out Mercedes-Benz Restaurant Awards here and the Top 10 here.