Despite its industrial steampunk theme, there’s a light touch to the cuisine and a welcoming, feel-good atmosphere at The Steamworks Gastropub, says Gwynne Conlyn

This is the latest venture of clever duo Martin Jakoby and Thomas Hughes. Their other popular venues, The Griffin, The Office and Perron, are successful in their own right.

The food

The clever menu offers delightful choices. It’s difficult to resist the likes of Asian-style pork belly burger with hoisin and soy aioli, served with pickled cucumbers and Asian fries. And the dishes deliver, generously.

Many of the items, like the fresh mussels cooked in craft cider, leeks and thyme, can be ordered in main or starter sizes. The already-popular starter of chilli salt squid with Asian cucumber salad and citrusy ponzu aioli is a very worthy choice.

There are also smart ‘shared’ options for two to four guests, such as the West Coast mussels served in two versions: the abovementioned choice, as well as freshly steamed in cider, with crème fraîche, roasted garlic aioli and saffron-and-chilli rouille, served with French fries that are equally lip-smacking.

Also to be found on the menu are obligatory pizzas – but these people had fun in designing the menu, so expect the unexpected, like toppings of smoked beef carpaccio, feta, almond pesto and rocket.

Other standouts include the salmon fishcakes with braised baby leeks, watercress purée, soft-poached egg, wholegrain mustard and lemon butter sauce. There’s also a light menu for children and some bar snacks of biltong, spiced nuts and delicious buttermilk-fried chicken.

Even though the portions are generous, there is a light touch to the cuisine.

The bar at The Steamworks Gastropub. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The drinks

Despite its industrial steampunk slant, this is a welcoming, feel-good place. Beer lovers will find a list of craft beers and ciders on tap, and the list of bottled beers and ciders (from around the world) is even longer, including very interesting choices.

The bar offers cocktails and shooters too, of course. You’ll also find bourbons, whiskeys and a very decent list of tequilas, including the famous aged Olmeca Reposado. The wine list is tight, well chosen and well priced. Wines by the glass are equally well priced and generously poured.

The service

Staff members are young, energetic and keen. Things can be a little disorganised, but this is easily forgiven in light of the short time they’ve been open.

The ambience

The venue is decorated and designed with Victorian elements themed around the industrial ‘steampunk’ movement, with bespoke furniture and décor details. The pub area has long tables with high stools, which are great for creating a sociable atmosphere.

And …

Be sure to book early for their Sunday roast (every Sunday from 12 noon) and tuck into chicken, deboned leg of lamb and pork belly. In fact, it would be wise to book any day of the week: word spreads fast and, even on a traditionally quiet Tuesday night, the space is pretty packed.

The verdict

All in all, The Steamworks Gastropub offers a damn good experience, with flavourful, fresh food that doesn’t fight with your bank balance.

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