Parkhurst’s newest addition, The Leopard, might have been named after a book (the Italian novel Il Gattopardo, a favourite of the owner’s family) but it sure isn’t doing things by the book.
The food
Simple and comforting, yet surprising food is the order of the day. With influences from Spain, Germany, Asia and South Africa, the food can best be described as global. Breakfast is served all day and includes interesting options like pistachio-rolled labneh with star anise poached apples and pears; basil mushrooms on toast; and fruit, salted and sugared nuts, honey, and lime with yoghurt and toasted coconut. Choosing a dish for lunch is difficult, so listen to the waiters and order a few to share. The options include an amazing Italian spinach dish (prepared with nutmeg, cream and parmesan), son of Caesar salad, lamb merguez sausage on butter-bean stew, and the current menu favourite: Saldanha Bay mussels with wine, cream, ginger, lime and confit tomato. As for dessert, the bananas in hot fudge sauce are unmissable.
The mood
It’s a simple, light, white space with an eclectic mix of antique and new furniture and crockery. A welcome haven on the buzzy Fourth Avenue.
The wine
They currently don’t have a liquor license, so you are welcome to take your own.
The people
The quirky woman behind it is Andrea Burgener, previous owner of Superbonbon and Deluxe. At her side is head chef is Leah Tsonye, an extraordinary person by Andrea’s account: “She has the most remarkable palate and can interpret ideas in ways that I’d never thought of. You could give her a stone and pint of water and she’d make it taste good. She’s a fiery, determined person who started as a sculler with me in 1999, and shortly afterwards was cooking like a pro.”
The verdict
Delightful. The perfect spot to sit and read the whole paper – and perhaps enjoy the whole menu. Best of all, they use only grass-fed beef and free-range chicken and eggs; their milk, cream and cheeses are from small producers who do not use growth hormones or antibiotics; and all fish/seafood is on the SASSI green list. So it’s a good choice all round.
By Anelde Greeff