Chef Matt Manning cut his teeth under the likes of Marcus Wareing in London and locally at Top 10 restaurant La Colombe, before going on to make a name for himself as a private chef. In December, Matt set his sights on opening Grub & Vine on Bree Street, which serves refined bistro-style fare. Eat Out editor Linda Scarborough went to have a taste.
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Food type: Upmarket bistro
Parking: It’s opposite the Heritage Square parking lot, if you want to pay an arm and a leg, otherwise Uber
Star ratings: Food and drinks: 4; Service: 4; Ambience: 5
Despite being billed as ‘grub’, this is accomplished and refined cooking made with skill and sense. The menu is blissfully short, allowing you a few options per section in starter or main portions. It’s easy to spot the dishes that make your imagination sing. Expert technique and plating result in dishes with spot-on flavours and textures. The food isn’t trying to be anything too trendy or flashy – it’s just thoroughly delicious, if quite pricey.
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You might be treated to a tasty amuse-bouche of arancini, before starting off with a dish of creamy burrata, heritage tomatoes and figs, which makes the most of the season’s bounty. The alternatives – root veg with vinaigrette, and charred broccoli with pear and Forest Phantom cheese – are no doubt also satisfying.
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West Coast hake with peas, lentils and tender mussels, plated with some on-theme foam, is perfectly cooked and tender, and the poached and roasted baby chicken with endives and parsnip chips shows off the chef’s skills, with umami-rich flavours and textures that will have you scraping your plate. Other options include braised ham hock and lamb rump but, coming in at over R200 for a portion, the latter is not mid-week lunch fare.
The single dessert option of the day is lovely: blackberry almond cake with custard and honeycomb. Alternatively, order a platter of local cheese.
The wine list of boutique options shows a sense of humour, with sections such as ‘French plonk’, ‘juicy & crunchy’ and ‘tannins are your friend’. By-the-glass options are plentiful. You’ll want to come back to try more of the list.
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Sharp, generous and on the ball. Matt might pop by to introduce one of his dishes.
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Not at all like your average Bree Street café – it’s elegant, calm and smart inside, with beautiful glassware, servingware and bare tables. The open kitchen is always exciting. Grab a table by the windows for a view of this busy part of town.
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Business lunches or luxurious dates.
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Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here.