A trip to the home of Vasco da Gama, plaintive fado music and blue tiles galore, had this foodie very excited. And it wasn’t all about the pasteis de nata (although they featured extensively too).

While the Lisbon food scene is largely dominated by traditional fare, this translates to food that is fresh, simple, uncomplicated, and invariably tasty.

If you’re after a homely, unpretentious spot, you can’t go wrong with Antigo 1º de Maio (Rua da Atalaia 8, Bairro Alto), which is situated in a cobbled side street in the buzzing district of the Bairro Alto. Excellent fishy fare such as sardines and sea bass are served simply grilled with lemon; try the battered green beans or garlicky clams as a starter – and remember to mop up all the lovely sauce with some bread!

The upmarket Chiado district is a bit more refined than her rowdy Bairro Alto neighbour, and is filled with boutiques and specialist shops. Café no Chiado is an unassuming and special spot for a relaxed lunch, serving quality fresh pastas and salads, or you could try a classic pepper steak. Sit outside on the pavement (and watch the famous no. 28 tram rattling past) or inside in the warmly decorated, book-filled space. An interesting take on chicken livers sees them served in a creamy sauce with raisins. Surprisingly yummy!

Just opposite the square lies Largo, the newest and coolest kid on Lisbon’s culinary block. It’s set in an ancient cloister and the décor showcases the ancient stone walls and arches against sensual round leather chairs, splashes of hot fuchsia and lime, and giant aquariums filled with ethereal floating jellyfish with changing neon lights in the background. Even the bathroom is trippy, with black toilets and black toilet paper! The menu showcases traditional ingredients such as bacalhau (codfish) and sea bass, but serves it with a modern spin: the sea bass is served in a marinated ceviche style, while the fillet of bacalhau is cooked at 80ºC, richly delicious with a helping of garlicky açorda (a staple side dish of soaked bread) on the side.

A sweet tooth Aside from the ubiquitous port wine, another foodie favourite is the pasteis de nata – a gooey, custardy tart in puff pastry. There are pastelarias (pastry shops) on every corner, and more variations on the theme of pastry and custard than you ever thought possible. The best in town is to be had from Antiga Confiteria de Belém (Rua de Belém 84-92); they even sell them in cardboard tubes of six, for serious gluttons. Just about every pastry shop I visited had excellent pasteis on offer – perfect for that 11am dip in energy levels! The Café A Brasileira (Rua Garrett 120), which opened in 1905, is an essential stop for a restorative tart and coffee. Inside, the dark wood and mirrors hark back to a bygone era, while the outside seating is perfect for people-watching. Other favourite sweet treats to be enjoyed after a meal are pudim flan (crème caramel) and pudim d’arroz (rice pudding).

Must buys There’s some great produce on offer to buy as gifts to take home (for yourself of course!). For old-world charm, pop into Casa Pereira (Rua Garrett 38, Chiado). This wood-paneled shop is filled with coffees imported from previous colonies such as Brazil, teas, sweets and fishy products like sardines or anchovies. Best of all is the army of gentlemen in white jackets who stand at the ready to parcel up your purchase in white paper.

If you’re after something quirky, the foodie range at A Vida Portuguesa is a must. This shop prides itself on preserving traditional Portuguese products – from soaps to ceramics. Expect olive oils, coffee, tea, sweets and tinned fish. The retro cool packaging adds a perfect finishing touch (as the price tags will attest).

If you’re on a budget… When you pop into a pastelaria for a custardy pastry and a coffee, enjoy yours standing at the bar counter – you could pay almost a third less than if you sit outside (with the other tourists).

When you’re at a restaurant, you’ll get bread, butter and fishy pâtés on the table. Although the charge is fairly nominal, you’ll pay for everything you consume. But oh the bread is so good…

 Words and images by Lisa van Aswegen