Brought to you by Woolworths

We chat to Daniel Leusch, chef and owner of La Madeleine in Pretoria (winner of the Eat Out Woolworths Icon Award) about what it takes to be an icon in the food industry. 

Consistency is probably one of the most important aspects of what it takes to flourish in the restaurant industry. As you can imagine, it’s hard work. Over the past 30 years we have been constantly striving to source the best produce and wines available, and to prepare and serve everything the best we can. As a chef, without good ingredients, you can achieve nothing. There’s a big difference in quality and taste when it comes to working with fresh crayfish compared to frozen ones.  

Many of our diners have been visiting us for over three generations now. I opened the doors to La Madeleine in 1984 and we have regulars joining us that started with the grandfather, then their son, and now the grown-up grandchildren are firm supporters. Our community has always loved bringing their children along for dinner, they’re not the type to leave them at home, so early on the children are educated in what it is to enjoy and share good food. It’s a very European approach to life.  

Deciding to open a French restaurant in Pretoria in the 80s was quite challenging. I was probably the first French restaurant in the city, and when I arrived, fine dining was limited to offering a pepper steak or fillet of sole – even trying to find duck on a menu was almost impossible. To think back to that time and to now be acknowledged with this special award – it’s a very good feeling. I must also say that attending the wonderful awards ceremony was an incredible experience.  

I don’t like clinging to ‘signature dishes’, I believe it makes chefs and restaurants lazy. These days diners like to be adventurous and it’s important to me that our customers should be excited by our menu. On the other hand, regulars will drive all the way from Johannesburg for our pan-fried prawns cooked in a classic fish stock with white wine, cream and herbs with fresh pasta on the side. It’s a perfect little dish that has a lot of repeat diners asking for it. So it’s important to maintain a fine balance between consistency and innovation.  

Coming from Europe, I had a different view on race and humanity. For me, human beings are human beings, so back in the 80s I happily took the risk of being one of the few South African restaurants to invite in people of all races. I guess you could say I was a peaceful activist, and I lost the support of a lot of conservative customers, but I gained more going forward. Eventually most of the local embassies would come to support us.  

Surviving COVID-19 greatly affected my dedication to preparing and serving the best dishes imaginable. I was probably one of the first COVID-19 patients in Pretoria, and I ended up spending two months in hospital. When I was finally well enough to go home, my connection with nature and produce intensified. Coming that close to death somehow increased my feelings towards cooking. I’m more sensitive to the quality of our vegetables, for example – I can’t resist proper organic lettuce, whereas before I just bought any lettuce and that was it. Even the fat pigeons who visit my garden inspire me to imagine just how I can create the perfect dish to serve for diners in the restaurant.  

On a Sunday you’ll most likely find my family and I enjoying a good South African braai. We source the best steaks from our local butcher and instead of pap I serve polenta on the side, prepared with cream, butter, parmesan and fresh mint. We love a braai!  

Read about the other winners at of 2022 Eat Out Woolworths Restaurant Awards