Since Bean Bag Bohemia’s untimely demise, nomadic socialites have been searching for a new home. When hai.bo mushroomed in the same premises at the beginning of November 2011, the good times returned.

The food
The interior brief was ‘collective opposites’ and the same ethos has been applied to the menu. The downstairs café is for laid back, communal eating and the menu is as diverse as the crowd. Owner Theuns Smuts, who relocated from Pretoria six years ago as a partner in the Moyo development at uShaka, has consciously paid tribute to the strong Zulu and Indian influences on Durban with hai.bo. Share mussels cooked in Carling Black Label, Pakko crumbed prawns, nyama bites – rib eye strips with shisa nyama spices, lamb frikkadels and sheba sauce, plus homemade beef wors with Mrs Ball’s chutney – or mini bunny chows. There are also general crowd pleasers in the main course selection of pizzas, pastas and burgers. The upstairs dining area is more formal in approach and, although local flavours follow through and you’ll find a traditional crab curry, there is more classic interpretation with items like prawn cocktail, marrow bones or lamb leg with a cardamom and coffee reduction.

The mood
Painted blue, the characterful double-storey building has always been a distinctive Durban landmark, and the reincarnation of the space remains eclectic and funky with an irreverent decadence. “The term ‘haibo’ is an expression of surprise, so what we have is lots of surprises and delights for our guests,” explained Theuns. “In the loo we have old Scope magazines from the 80s and there are little wow moments like the bar which has a stripper pole on it. Maybe one night a transvestite will do a dance and the next night we’ll have a strongman.” Look out for artist Peter Engblom’s installation.

The wine
Just as much time was spent on developing the wine list as the menu, and it shows. The comprehensive collection covers all varietals and mainstream blends (with a smattering of champagne and Cap Classique to add an air of occasion) with iconic and accessible choices in each category. You’ll also find the requisite amount of decadent cocktails.

The people
hai.bo really succeeds in being all things to all people. “I knew what was missing (in Durban) and what I wanted,” said Theuns. “When we found the space, the brand sharpened itself. It’s new, fresh, relevant and isn’t cheesy. It is somewhere cosmopolitan for people to mix for a business meeting or a ladies’ lunch. People can enjoy the formal angle, the café bar downstairs or the outside, which is more of a beer garden. It’s become a home for people in Durban who had lost a place to go.”

The verdict
hai.bo is about fun rather than fine dining, so round up your friends and let the good times roll.

By Tracy Gielink