Westdene might be one of Bloemfontein’s oldest suburbs, but it’s also the place for all things fresh and funky. My day on the streets of this cool part of town turned into a fantastic food adventure and the discovery that the City of Roses is more than just a place where judges make important decisions (Bloem is the judicial capital of South Africa) and guys in bright orange jerseys play rugby. 

This is more or less what happened on my culinary expedition in Westdene. 

08:30 Parked my car under a huge pine tree in Reid Street with the idea of finding my way down Second Avenue in search for good food. I trusted the local foodies’ word that coffee and breakfast are tops at the Reid Street establishment called Iewers Nice. And I certainly wasn’t disappointed. Iewers Nice (Afrikaans for ‘somewhere nice’ and, according to the owners, the standard answer to the question ‘Where shall we go for coffee/lunch?’) served the best and most delicious-looking café latte I’ve had for a very long time. 

The atmosphere was just perfect for a solo breakfast. The morning papers were available and the waiters not too chatty. Or maybe mine just sensed that I was from the species homo-doesn’t- really- chat- before- 9-sapiens. The breakfast menu had it all: from one-pan English breakfasts (served in the pan the bacon and egg were fried in) to an interesting breakfast martini (where salmon and egg were served in a, yes, a martini glass). But I couldn’t resist the yummy-sounding French toast with green figs. 

On my way out I looked back at the charming little restaurant with its cosy stoep and knew I would be back sometime soon.

10:05 Headed for Second Avenue. On my way down this busy street, which buzzes with shops and eateries, I passed a bright green building with a life-sized sign announcing Johnny’s Fruit Market. Being a huge fan of these establishments, I had to go inside and take a look. Johnny’s was just like the fruit markets I remember from my childhood: the cold cement floor, the smell of fresh fruit, and boxes of fruit piled on top of each other with all the names of the farms of origin printed on the sides: Lemoenkloof, Tierpoort, Mooifontein, De Keur… I bought one giant guava to eat and a star fruit to admire. 

10:25 Turned left into Kellner Street towards Freshford House Museum (another great local tip) where I planned to kill time until lunch. The house is a gorgeous example of Edwardian architecture and the artworks inside must be one of Bloemfontein’s best-kept secrets. 

11:30 Found my way back to Second Avenue. By the time I had reached Vida & Arte (pictured) in President Reitz Avenue, just one block up from Freshford House, Pavlov’s bells were ringing loudly and clearly. Vida & Arte, which doubles as an art gallery, is housed in a beautiful old Victorian house with gleaming wooden floors and a sunny stoep. I was early enough for the sunny spot in the bay window. Before I could start browsing through one of the glossy magazines on the table, owner Miguel Borge brought me the menu. The amiable Argentinean suggested the Spanish tapas platter. But I needed more time. It was a tough decision between the tapas platter and the Pato salad with warm duck, pecorino shavings, wine reduction and strawberry. 

12:15 More lunch guests soon started arriving, and Miguel greeted them like old friends. I decided to wait and see what they ordered before I placed mine. But that didn’t help as one guest ordered her special ciabatta, another the quiche of the day and the other one just nodded when asked if it would be the usual. I went for the tapas platter. I was not disappointed when the freshly baked bread, cheeses, olives, Black Forest ham, Spanish tortillas and caramelised onions arrived. This was all I could remember as I failed to take notes while making friends with Vida & Arte’s regulars. 

It was way past two when I left Vida & Arte, where I am sure to become a regular after this visit. I put my name on the list to be invited to Miguel’s (who is also a wine aficionado) monthly wine-tasting evenings.

15:00 Back in Kellner Street, heading for Meel (Afrikaans for ‘flour’). Original plan: high tea. Amended plan: tea and cake of the day. It took just one look at the skyscraper of a lemon meringue pie on the cake table to sway me. When the enormous slice of pie and pot of Earl Grey tea, all served in the finest antique porcelain, arrived, things couldn’t have been better. Rachmaninov was in my ears and the sun on my back. 

I bought an irresistible farm-style bread that had been baked on the premises (Meel is also a deli) to take home, and headed back to Second Avenue, lazy, but grateful for the uphill walk. 

16:20 In my car. Phew, what a day in Westdene. 

 · When in Westdene, also don’t miss the best Chinese restaurant in town, Nagoya, at 49 Second Avenue, which is open daily from 10:00 until 22:00. Don’t be misled by the size of the tiny little place, the chef’s sushi, Thai dishes and spring rolls are unparalleled in the Free State.

By Colette du Plessis