The latest addition to Bree Street adds Peruvian flair to the already extensive range of options on the trendy Cape Town street.

Its namesake, Charango, is a small Peruvian stringed instrument (much like a ukulele) traditionally made from the shell of an armadillo.

The restaurant is fresh – just a few days old – and is already a much-talked-about and bustling hot spot.

Food

The food is inspired by Peruvian cuisine. Our waiter explains that this isn’t steak-and-chips dining. Rather, the sharing of a variety of dishes is encouraged.

The smaller meals centre largely around fresh, raw fish dishes (ceviche and tiraditos) plus a few bar snacks and antichucho (kebabs), while the larger plates are barbeque grill-style dishes.

Long table seating at Charango. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The rainbow sea bass (R80) is light, cured with remolacha leche de tigre (beetroot tiger’s milk) that imparts a wonderful hint of smoky jalapeño. The just-cooked beetroot adds earthy undertones and provides a good bite with the soft fish.

The dirt-rubbed tuna taco (R85) is a beautiful thing. The tuna is perfectly seared and lightly spiced, concealing a sweet, tangy, mustardy layer of guacamole and wasabi beneath it. A pretty slaw of ultra-fine carrot and red cabbage adds crunch.

The five-spiced sweet potato fries (R30) are good by themselves, and even better paired with the burnt onion and orange mayo. Despite their appeal, in hindsight they’d be better suited for a bar bite or ‘wait-for-the-rest-of-your-table-to-arrive’ snack.

The bar at Charango. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The BBQ pork belly (R120) is exquisite. It has an ideal ratio of meat to fat and is unbelievably tender. The barbequed skin is lightly crackled, complementing the tenderstem broccoli and spicy pineapple salsa.

Another meaty option is the lamb loin (R165), a fat-free cut, served medium rare. Tender, with a salty, barbequed exterior, it’s slightly sweet, particularly when paired with the sweet corn and tart relish. The hints of mint sauce finish the dish off perfectly.

The desserts, however, are the highlight of the meal.

Initially, I’m mildly disappointed with my choice of toasted quinoa crème (R55), particularly after tasting the chocolate dessert, but the deeper I venture into the dish, the more magnificent it becomes. The creamy quinoa marries the sticky rum butterscotch sauce with the burnt banana in a sweet matrimony. I’d come here for this dish alone.

The blonde chocolate pave (R60) is beautiful, rich and decadent. Served atop a thin biscuit crust with a light dusting of cocoa, the seasonal berries balance the dish with their tart flavour.

Comfortable bench seating at Charango. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

It is worth noting that vegetarian options are extremely limited: you can order but one ceviche-style dish of courgettes and cucumber with shitake, mint, garlic, chilli and miso (R55) and two bar snacks, the sweet potato fries, and flamed edamame (R35).

Drinks

Charango has an extensive list of Peruvian cocktails. Prices range from R45 for a traditional pisco sour to R65 for a Charango mojito. A pisco sour, for the uninitiated, combines pisco (traditional South American brandy) with lime juice, sweetener, egg white and bitters.

The strawberry and rooibos sours (R50) tastes like what can only be described as a mature daiquiri. It’s smooth and slightly tangy with sweet undertones. The Pisco El Poncho (R55) is an interesting combination of pineapple and lime with a lingering vanilla aftertaste.

Rustic style crockery at Charango. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The wine list is concise but broad. There are two to three bottles, and at least one glass, per varietal. Whites by the glass average at R45; reds at R50.

Service

Excellent. After seating us, the waiter introduces the concept of the restaurant, and is knowledgeable and attentive throughout the night. The manager arrives shortly afterwards and welcomes us by name. (All Eat Out critics dine anonymously, so this was simply good hospitality.)

The interior at Charango. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The staff appear to be legitimately passionate about the restaurant, and throughout the evening share anecdotes about the building and development of Charango, as well as what is still to come.

Ambience

As the pisco haze washes over you, you’ll be forgiven for thinking that you’re dining under a highway bridge in an unknown Peruvian city – but with a classy edge.

Sit under the watchful eyes of Faith47 street art, surrounded by concrete pylons, exposed ventilation ducts, copper plumbing and bronzed, grungy mirrors.

The acoustics are excellent (despite the busy adjoining pisco bar) and the lighting is warm.

Another view of the bar at Charango. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The only critique: some seats have a direct view of the television above the bar, which would create an unwelcome distraction in an otherwise cosy, contemporary environment.

An outside deck adjoining the bar is ideal for after-work drinks, and almost the entire restaurant front opens up onto Bree Street for warmer evenings.

And…

Charango is not currently open on Sundays, but there are plans in the pipeline to offer Sunday breakfast and lunch. There’s also talk about developing a more extensive weekday lunch menu, based on the immediate success of the tuna tacos.

Eat Out critics dine anonymously and pay for their meals. Read our editorial policy here.

Have you checked out the freshly opened Charango yet? Tell us what you thought.