The endearing row of quaint cottages at the top end of Bree Street is fast filling up with the latest Cape Town hot spots. Nestled alongside the likes of Bacon on Bree, Culture Club Cheese and Mother’s Ruin Gin Bar, Door 221 is the newest kid on the block. Amy Ebedes takes a first look at the self-proclaimed dive bar in its opening week.

Food

We order each of the three tacos listed for Taco Tuesday: pulled pork, fish, and vegetarian chilli beans, each priced at R45. They arrive promptly in bamboo containers. The tortilla themselves are showstoppers: they’re some of the best I’ve ever had. They’re soft and fluffy, yet with a subtle flavour that plays a supporting role in the overall taste of the dish.

The pork is tender and juicy, and the fish is perfectly soft and flaky. It’s a messy affair, with juice running down our forearms – a good sign, as the degree to which food drips down to your elbows is directly proportional to the enjoyment of the meal. The vegetarian chilli beans, however, lack the zing of the other two meat dishes.

The food at Door 221. Photo courtesy of Amy Ebedes.

We discover napkins and utensils in a locker of one of the desks (more on the furniture later). No one points them out to us, and had it not been for our curiosity, it would’ve been a much messier meal.

If you visit on another night of the week, you can snack on a range of bar snacks, including devils on horseback (R35), grilled mielies with barbecue butter (R20) and mushroom arancini (R40). If the tacos are anything to go by, the rest of the dishes will be well worth a try.

Drinks

A vast array of spirits lines the bar, with a chalkboard vaguely outlining other beverage options. We enquire about drinks, and a comedy of errors ensues. There’s only one beer on tap (Drifter’s Cape Town Blonde) and, as we’re told, “a range of SAB beers”. We can’t see the options as they’re hidden beneath the bar and no further information is forthcoming.

A brief, but intriguing, list of cocktails is written on the board. On enquiring about the details, there’s a brief pause, and we’re handed not a cocktail list, but the barman’s laminated guide to making the drinks.

The bar at Door 221. Photo courtesy of Amy Ebedes.

Finally, there’s confusion about the house wines. Bottles are pulled out unceremoniously from under the bar to assist with the explanation (Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc and Warwick First Lady are two labels we glimpse). We put the barman out of his misery and opt for the draught beer.

Service

The staff are friendly and welcoming, albeit slightly nervous. To be fair, Door 221 is still in its early infancy (they opened on 26 June) and the bar experience definitely comes down to a lack of experience rather than poor service.

An outside view at Door 221. Photo courtesy of Amy Ebedes.

I’m not sure how they’ll cope on busy nights – although I suspect the clientele won’t be concerned about the vintage, let alone the varietal, of their wine.

Ambience

There’s a certain mystical appeal to Door 221: there’s no decor outside, bar a small sign bearing its name, draped behind a few strands of ivy. It has a Secret Garden appeal, enticing you inside to discover what lies behind the door.

The decor is quirky and reminiscent of an 80s primary-school classroom. Modular desks, lockers and heavy cabinets make up the somewhat minimalist look. The downstairs area opens up to the base of a magnificent tree. The space is inviting, but we quickly realise that there aren’t any waiters, and the bar is upstairs.

The seating at Door 221. Photo courtesy of Amy Ebedes.

Dive bar-esque music plays, with the tunes on the slightly trendier side of grunge.

And…

It’s still early days. Is Door 221 a dive bar with a Bree-Street edge, or a Bree Street bar with a divey influence? Time – and the clientele they attract – will tell.

In the meantime, pop in (early) for their tacos and a drink, just don’t be too specific about your beverage needs.

Eat Out critics dine anonymously and pay for their meals in full. read our editorial policy here.

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