Finding Tuscany in Tshwane

Wednesday, March 30th, 2011

 

Anyone who has stuck their nose through the doors of Pretoria’s Ristorante Ritrovo knows that this magnificent restaurant is as much about food as it is about friends and family. The Mazzone father-and-son team, the gentle Giovanni and his dynamic son Fortunato, have established the ground rules that have turned this into a Gauteng beacon for Italian food lovers.

 

Visit the restaurant in the early afternoon and you’ll find the Mazzone clan and their colleagues gathered around a table enjoying a late lunch. Large bowls of pasta or some of their moreish pizzas are scattered on the table and the diners are tucking in before they start preparing for the evening rush.

 

What started as a single restaurant in Sunnyside a few decades ago has been turned into a small empire by an inspired son. Forti, a kind bear of a man, always has his eye on the ball. After establishing Ritrovo, he followed with two high-end kitchen shops, one next to Ritrovo and the other in Centurion (with a partner), concluding with a hugely successful trio of classy coffee shops, BICCCS, which first opened next to Ritrovo with two more in the Cape; one in the city centre’s trendy Cape Quarter and the other in Franschhoek. Forti also started producing his own olive oil and wine, both of which flow freely in the restaurant.

 

But it all began with Ritrovo, which is currently undergoing renovations with new windows further enhancing the view (one of the few Pretoria restaurants that can claim one), as well as large-scale refurbishing inside. There’s also talk of a Bedouin-like tent structure at the entrance of the restaurant. Not that any of this halts any of the serious eating for a second.

 

The restaurant has both a fine-dining and bistro/deli section with spots that guarantee some privacy for those who don’t want to be part of the gregarious mêlée that characterises the restaurant. The first thing that spring to mind when Ritrovo is mentioned is heartiness, Giovanni’s amazing salt-and-herb encrusted pangiovanni and Forti’s passion for opera – he bursts into song at least once during service. He is also the most fervent patron of Pretoria’s Black Tie Ensemble, a leading opera company, and regularly hosts fund-raising concerts and singers who perform a few songs on a given night.

 

Taught and guided by his father, who still watches his back, Forti is a classic chef but never a conformist. He is constantly reinventing and updating menus with fresh produce. It’s tough to get past the traditional pastas and pizzas, though. He takes pleasure in pleasing others. “I would pay to do this,” he says. “It’s so much fun.”

As crispy tempura oysters and bocconcino mozzarella wrapped in marinated white anchovy with basil and tomato start the proceedings, he can hardly hide his delight at what’s to follow. This enthusiastic approach to life is infectious – the staff has been empowered to take ownership of the restaurant and it shows from the moment you arrive.

 

It’s not just about serving good food in a gracious venue. It’s about ambience and the attention to detail that makes dining out at this Italian home-from-home such an embracing experience. There’s very little pomp and ceremony. During the hot summer months, Forti can be found hovering somewhere between the pots and a patron, wearing shorts, a chef’s jacket and his comfy Crocs. He has paid his dues and is as lavish with his praise as he enjoys hearing good things about one of his venues. Ritrovo Ristorante isn’t the cheapest joint in town, but when you decide to make a meal of it, it’s an affair to remember.

 

By Diane de Beer