Keeping a restaurant afloat during a relentless recession is not for the faint-hearted … and continuing to pack diners in night after night is nothing short of impressive. Marco Paulo’s dynamic young owners Paul Sheppard and Brenton “Billy” Franks modestly say they’re lucky. Yes, they may draw on the affluent residents of the neighbouring exclusive golf estate but, as Gary Player famously said, “The harder I practice, the luckier I get.”
 
Dining out, especially in this economic climate, is also about value for money, service and consistency. Paul and Billy (who became friends when working at the perennially popular restaurant Spiga d’Oro) are omnipresent. They greet diners by name, give personal endorsements and deliver food, all with an easy, casual charm.
 
“I think that the people who really care about our shop are present,” says Paul. “We understand Durbanites which in restaurant terms can be difficult, but most importantly we spend time there. When it comes to front of house my time at Spiga with (owner) Luca Santoniccolo was so valuable. He had this amazing way of making people feel special. People used to come there just to be part ofthat. You left feeling better about yourself. His way with people still humbles me,” he says.
 
The restaurant was originally started in 2008 by Paul and mentor-turned-friend Marco Nico. A seasoned restaurateur, Marco’s heritage and love of Mediterranean food largely shaped the menu – keep an eye out for the special of suppli, asparagus and mozzarella risotto balls topped with sundried tomato pesto, artichoke and rocket. Other flavours that have influenced KZN palates and also the Marco Paulo menu, are those from neighbouring Mocambique (their peri-peri chicken is a top seller) or fresh line fish presented French Mauritian style. It is oven roasted beforebeing finished in a traditional sauce of peppers, onions, tomato and mazavaroo and served with basmati rice fragranced with coconut, coriander and lemon zest.
 
Paul loves spending time in the kitchen developing specials which, more often than not, fulfil their need for simple, heart-warming fare like sirloin with a porcini and sundried tomato butter served with a lightly smoked marrow topped with Parmesan and mustard then oven roasted. He also loves using unfashionable cuts of meat like hanger steak or pork neck which might be rubbed with paprika and roasted overnight with apple, onion, cider, bay leaves, sage and garlic. “Generally in the restaurant, people expect that little bit more, but I sneak in the odd simple home-style dish which will often be the first item to sell out,” he confesses.
 
Their current predilection (which has garnered much attention from foodies) is suckling pig which needs to be ordered in advance. The pig is deboned, stuffed with Parma ham, thyme and garlic then rolled and oven roasted with white wine and stock before being served with crispy sage and rosemary roasted potatoes.
 
Aside from time in the kitchen, days are spent sourcing ingredients. “I like to get all my fresh produce from small local producers. Durban’s Indian influence really offers us so much in terms of produce. Vegetables form such a pivotal role in their diet that they naturally produce some wonderful stuff,” says Paul.
 
“My herb garden has really come into its own this year but my pick of the bunch must be sage. I think it’s because I love cooking pork so much. It’s just so savoury, I love it. Fresh bay leaf goes into so many of our Mocambiquan dishes. I’ve tried using the dried version but it just doesn’t cut it. Big pots of stock are constantly boiling away gently. I think the smell of celery and carrots boiling into a stock are the back bone of many good kitchens.”
 
Don’t be surprised to find Paul and Billy in a T-shirt and a pair of jeans (or even a pair of shorts in Durban’s oppressive summer heat), which reinforces that Marco Paulo is clearly home. But, while the atmosphere is laid back, don’t underestimate the passion and professionalism or overlook the little piece of them that is poured into every dish.

By Tracy Gielink

We're giving away lunch to the value of R300 at Marco Paulo. To enter, click here.