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Crazy for coconuts

I met a chef at the weekend with as much adoration for coconut as I have. Coconut milk is prominent on chef Cheyne Morrisby’s menu at The Franschhoek Kitchen at the Holden Manz Estate. In addition to coconut cream dumplings, mushroom and coconut cream risotto, and a coconut and rum ice cream, there was a gorgeous coconut-based laksa, too.

It certainly was a coconut-themed week with a tasting of Lindt’s brand new addition to the Excellence range of dark chocolate with roasted coconut, which is available in 100g slabs. This new flavour reminded me of Cadbury’s cashew nut and coconut bars, and those cake-sale-and-fête coconut clusters. (You can still find them at corner stores – the few that are left – in jars on the counter.)

I suppose that’s why I quite fancy snowballs, coconut ice, date balls, Asian-inspired curries and dressings, Tennis biscuits and the tropical tastes of a pina colada now and again.

Canned coconut milk is my favourite store cupboard ingredient, and sometimes the cream, too. And I do like using coconut oil, especially when making popcorn.

But something a bit more inspirational was when chef Scot Kirton at La Colombe in Constantia made coconut granita for me a few weeks ago. It was served in a frozen coconut shell and slurped down by my husband with the bamboo straw. Talk about taking a palate cleanser to another level!

I was also inspired by Richard Carstens, at the helm of Tokara Restaurant, and his pure white dessert plate, which boasted elements of crystallised white chocolate, ginger, litchi and coconut. The layers of tastes, textures and techniques were phenomenal.

But new fancy trends often let us forget about good old-fashioned tastes and ideas. I brought my tub of desiccated coconut to the table the other night to sprinkle over our beef curry. I’m not sure if the appeal is because those tastes are so symbolic of childhood memories, or if they really are the perfect match.

Enjoy eating out and in this week.
Abigail

Photographs: Tawest64, Craig Dugas, Abigail Donnelly and Chandikra Nair.

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