The story of the charismatic Vusi Kunene, a former car guard turned restaurateur, is an inspiring tale. So much so that The Blackanese Sushi and Wine Bar is featured in Hansa’s Cheers to the Dreamers TV and print advertising campaign; and the adventures of the black sushi chef (not to be confused with the notorious Sushi King, Kenny Kunene, even though they happen to share a surname) has been featured in everything from entrepreneurship magazines to television programmes.

Raised by his sole-breadwinner grandmother, Vusi was forced to abandon his studies and find work as a car guard. He moved into retail and eventually found his passion working in restaurants. In 2005, he was able to start a mobile sushi bar, which slowly gathered momentum and fans.

Now, a year into his stint as restaurant owner in the Maboneng Precinct, Vusi seems unperturbed by the hype and wholly focused on the food. The fact that the restaurant is not yet licenced helps Vusi focus on what his patrons will be eating ­– and they can do the same.

“I want the food to be first,” Vusi tells us. “I don’t want people coming to the restaurant for drinks only, which is why our drinks menu will remain small once we’re licenced. We’ll eventually serve some wine, sake and Japanese beers.”

His first year of business might have been tough, but these days his customers can be seen happily eating on the sidewalk due to limited space inside. He hopes to double the size of his restaurant when the time is right, but for now Vusi sticks to what he does best: sushi.

Food

“The eyes eat first,” is something you’ll often hear Vusi say, which is why a lot of effort goes into the presentation of the sushi. All-you-can-eat sushi Tuesdays are a good time to sample the complete Blackanese offering. In addition to sushi favourites, ranging from California rolls and fashion sandwiches to nigiri, sashimi and hand rolls, Vusi also offers a marvellous selection of unique sushi flavours like wasabi parcels and biltong California rolls. This unique African twist will change the way you think about sushi forever. Try the strawberry and cream cheese dessert sushi for a bit of sweetness at the end of the meal.

Wine

Despite its name, The Blackanese Sushi and Wine Bar is not yet licenced, but the waiters are very keen to pop out to one of the other restaurants to get you a glass of wine or a jam jar cocktail. The chili and plum jam jar is an interesting and delicious way to kick off a fun evening, especially if you have a fondness for food with a bit of bite.

Service

The service is phenomenal. Waiters are engaged; they seem really invested in the restaurant, making the whole experience all the more personal. Don’t be afraid to alert the waiters to your food preferences or ask for advice. Everyone is really eager.

Ambience

‘Township chic’ is the closest I can get to an accurate description of the décor. The tiny space is sparsely furnished with everything from repurposed barrels with glass tops to cool drink crates with cushions. Chopsticks are carefully positioned against a focus wall and diners are encouraged to watch the chefs work their magic at the sushi bar. The Blackanese is a dining experience that seems to encapsulate the essence of Johannesburg: urban, metropolitan, diverse, friendly and oh, so tasty.