A pompous American cardinal was holding court at the corner table while a large table of upscale Japanese 20-somethings were celebrating. Welcome to Imago – The Hassler Rome’s panoramic restaurant where the moneyed meet.

Fifty years since Rome’s first panoramic restaurant opened, it was entirely revamped and renamed in December 06. Chef Francesco Apreda (among Rome’s youngest) also designed the kitchen selecting induction cooking over more traditional methods.

As famous for its views (sixth floors above The Spanish Steps), as for its cuisine, Imago is smart and expensive with service and cuisine to match. We dined as their guests. They have degustation menus for fish, meat and vegetarian dishes and my meat selection would have cost well over R1000. I shudder how much the sommelier’s selection would have added to the bill as, when I researched it afterwards, it included Italy’s finest wines.

Start with Duck foie gras terrine which they serve with walnuts and a coffee, fig brioche with salt cod. The quenelle-shaped cod delivered an intense flavour that worked beautifully with the creamy liver.

The hero was hand-made fusilloni pasta with a quail ragout carbonara style with its softly poached egg that breaks into an unctuous sauce. It reminded me how over-sauced South African pasta dishes tend to be.

Gorgonzola ravioli followed served with edamame (green Soybeans), sesame and chestnut honey.

While the main dish of baked rabbit loin was delicious, (served with almonds, black olives, marjoram and peach) had it not been for the Nero d’Avola wine sauce, it could be found on menus anywhere in our global kitchen.

I loved the rhubarb and wine compote which was bitingly tart and totally delicious served with banana and macaroon ice cream.

As a first time visitor I had hoped for more traditional Roman dishes but Imago delivered contemporary cuisine that you’d find at fine restaurants in New York and Cape Town. The wines delivered an Italian experience.

We started the evening with a Lombardi sparkling wine – the Bellavista Franciacorta cuvee which holds it own with any French Champagne I’ve enjoyed. The Alto Adige Gewurztraminer from South Tyrol worked very well with the fusilloni. Umbria’s Cervaro della Sala (chardonnay with a small selection of Grechetto grapes on oak for five months) and a Sicilian Ben Rye’ Passito di Pantelleria from Donnafugata with dessert provided the finish to a special dining experience.

Brian Berkman

www.hotelhassler.com