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Baguettes and butter: finding authentic pastries in Paris

Friday, March 28th, 2014 by Shirley Fodor

There are certain memories that stand out against the blur of day-to-day experience. My earliest and most intense sensory experiences all occurred in Paris. It is with absolute clarity that I recall the thick, creamy hot chocolate served en bol (in a bowl), the tantalising crunch of baguette being torn and the scent of buttery croissants and pain au chocolat, fresh from the oven. I was three years old.

Now, more than thirty years later, it’s those same memories, a little frayed around the edges, that guided my feet through Parisian streets that were both foreign and yet instinctively familiar. I was intent on searching for those same flavours and experiences that awoke my inner gypsy and an intense curiosity for the cultures and cuisines of the world.

Paris in springtime is magnificent. It is a riot of colour and floral fragrance. On almost every street corner someone plays waltzes on an accordion. The impossibly blue skies draw the people out into the Jardins des Tuilleries at lunchtime to soak in the mild sunlight and indulge in one of the national pastimes: eating.

Paris has in many respects stayed the same and changed immeasurably in the intervening years. The arrival of chain-stores like Starbucks and Paul’s has rendered the corner boulangeries and patisseries almost obsolete – it now requires a diligent search to find true bakeries where the baguettes, croissants and pastries are baked daily. By the same token, the small bistros and brasseries have all but vanished. This is an indictment on a world that prefers instant, consistent gratification, however mediocre, to the artistry and care evident in homemade food. But for those wanting a true Parisian experience, a few rounds of hide and seek will still reveal some remarkable gems across the city…

Begin your days at Coquelicot (24 rue des Abbesses) in Montmartre, in the shadow of Sacre Coeur. It’s pure nostalgia. In this warm, bustling bakery and bistro, where the pastries fly out of the door, you can indulge in coffee or thick hot chocolate en bol. Thus fortified, you are ready to face the winding streets that will take you up to the Basilica, passing the homes of Van Gogh and Toulouse Lautrec (these are private residences, but there are plaques marking their positions) en route and take in the artists’ square, where you can have a portrait or caricature drawn. From the stairs of Sacre Coeur, take in the vista over the rooftops of the city.

While Paris has a highly efficient public transport system, it is a wonderful city for walkers and I would recommend you find your way around the city – particularly to the Marche Montorgue (which is at the Sentier exit of the Metro, for the lazy). This is the original market place of Paris and the streets are lined with every conceivable delicacy. Walking tours offer inexpensive tasting experiences that’ll take your tongue on a culinary journey to dream about for years to come. Wine, cheese and chocolate: it’s all there for the tasting. Come hungry; come very hungry.

Devote some time between the veritable cornucopia of museums and galleries to the Marais district. In particular, to the traditional brasseries that line the streets, and a tiny cooking school aptly named La Cuisine Française. There are a number of cooking schools around Paris offering courses to the serious gourmande, as well as the playful home cook. La Cuisine Française manages an easy balance between the two and offers variety of classes, as well as tours of the local markets. The chefs are knowledgeable and are all English speaking. The classes are interactive and you go home with a box of goodies and recipes that you would be confident to recreate at home. The only absolute necessities are enthusiasm and a love of butter. Because you will be elbows deep in butter.

Paris is still the beautiful city of my childhood memories, only now I have the recipes for baguettes, croissants and macarons safely tucked in my notebook. These recipes, and the memories they evoke, are more valuable than anything money can buy.

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No Comments

  • David Hertz
    April 1, 2014

    It is indeed rare to find an author who lives her passion and who makes one want to journey with her.

    Brilliantly written and entertaining to boot.

    Reply
    1. Shirley Fodor
      April 1, 2014

      Thank you David – I am glad you are enjoying being in the passenger seat!

  • Louise
    April 2, 2014

    The danger of reading the tales of your travels Ms Fodor is not only the lingering craving for all things delicious, but the awaking of a tiny voice from my 20’s that wanted to see the world. Can’t wait to read the next instalment.

    Reply
    1. Shirley Fodor
      April 2, 2014

      Obey the craving…listen to the voice…do it…

  • La Cuisine Paris
    April 8, 2014

    Bonjour Shirley!
    It is such a pleasure to be a part of your cuisine escapades in Paris! Everyone that joins us becomes a part of our little extended family all over the world, so we look forward to hearing about your continued culinary journeys. À bientôt from the entire team!

    Reply
    1. Shirley Fodor
      April 11, 2014

      Salut!

      I left your hallowed cuisine for Provence and am now enjoying the Italian sunshine… I will gladly keep you in the loop!

  • Karen
    April 8, 2014

    Just when I thought I had my travel addiction under control…. thanks Ms. Fodor…. Cannot wait for the next instalment!

    Reply
  • Orly
    April 10, 2014

    Thrilled to have read another adventure by the intrepid culinary explorer who conjured up cinnamon scented pumpkin ice cream in Salem and now has my mouth watering at the thought of being elbow deep in buttery French Patisserie. I have been eagerly awaiting this next installment and am not dissappointed!
    Bring on the next tempting morsel!

    Reply
  • Linda B
    April 16, 2014

    Oh Shirley, this makes me want to rush off to Paris to share the experience – especially, the cookery school!

    Reply
  • Linda B
    April 16, 2014

    Oh Shirley, this makes me want to rush off to Paris to share the experience – especially, the cookery school!

    Reply

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