Named for the winemaker Charles Back, Back’s Restaurant and Deli in Paarl is the latest offering from Fairview. Set in a lovely old Cape Dutch building, this stylish spot is serving robust bistro fare that is sure to find wide appeal.

Exciting times! NEW MENU out very soon with more lunch, dinner options and more #backs #paarl #lunch #salad #foodie

A post shared by Back’s (@__backs__) on Feb 21, 2018 at 1:38am PST

Fast facts

Food type: Bistro fare
Cost: From R77 for the salads and sarmies to R155 for the cut of the day, with quite a few mains at R135
Best for: A long, lingering meal with friends or family – yet also ideal for a business lunch
Star rating: Food and wine 4; ambience 4; service 3

Food

This is an all-day affair. A short but considered breakfast menu leads the charge, with items like a variety of rösti Benedicts, and some blueberry-and-buttermilk flapjacks to tempt the appetite. Those looking for a light lunch might look to the interesting open sandwiches and salads, and – this being a Fairview-affiliated restaurant, after all – the choice of cheese and cured-meat platters. Throw in a couple of burger options and substantial mains like slow-roasted pork belly or trout fish cakes with carrot purée and a butter-dill sauce, and you’ve got something to satisfy every culinary whim.

Our new fish cakes are to die for Home made trout fish cakes, crumbed and deep fried, served with a delicious roasted carrot purée and creamy butter dill sauce. Topped with fresh lemon. #paarl #backs #visitpaarl #food #wine #quality #fresh #foodie #capetown #restaurant #deli #fish

A post shared by Back’s (@__backs__) on Jun 11, 2018 at 8:47am PDT

The dishes emerging from the kitchen speak of a generous nature: the portions are ample; the flavours are robust and well thought-out. A special of the day of braised lamb shank with sweet potato purée is meltingly soft, a divine, wintery treat that will not soon be forgotten. The classic burger is perfectly cooked and presented. Aged cheddar cheese, a tangy tomato relish and pickled cucumber, and served with the best fries I’ve tasted in years – that’s it. There’s absolutely nothing I would change about this burger.

A smart menu for ‘the little monsters’ includes a burger, crunchy mac-and-cheese fingers, and a cheese-and-charcuterie board designed for young tastebuds.

And as for ending on a sweet note, there’s cake and pastries, but the most intriguing options can be found under the artisanal ice creams and sorbets. The latter selection includes what they are calling liquor sorbets, and some very alluring flavours you will find there, too: pink champagne or chardonnay fig, anyone?

Father’s day brunch shot by @iza_slabbert. Thank you for your support #busy #backs #fathersday #breakfast #lunch #coffee #paarl #visitpaarl #foodie #capetown #restaurant #deli #weekend #sunday

A post shared by Back’s (@__backs__) on Jun 17, 2018 at 3:24am PDT

Drinks

As you’d expect, the Back’s wine list is comprised of Fairview and Spice Route bottles – but then between the two of these ranges, you are rather well looked-after in terms of variety. A glass of Fairview Rose Quartz goes down very well on a sunny day in the Boland. Also on offer is the usual mix of coffees, teas and cool drinks, along with a range of healthy-sounding fresh juices and smoothies which can, from 11am onwards, be spiked to entertain the cocktail enthusiast.

We are still looking for someone that doesn’t like our canelé Canelé is a French pastry from Bordeaux. Soft and tender custard center, dark and crispy crust. #backs #pastry #patisserie #paarl #canele #dessert #sweet #foodie #foodporn #instafood #discoverpaarl #visitpaarl

A post shared by Back’s (@__backs__) on Feb 27, 2018 at 1:51am PST

Service

Staff are welcoming and laid-back. No mad rushing about here; it’s more of a friendly stroll. It suits the casual atmosphere and lulls you into very relaxed mood. Cleverly, members of staff swing by the table for a quick and informal cheese tasting. And why not? The cheese (sold in the deli) is excellent. I walk away with a creamy St Louis, which does not last beyond dusk.

‘Brunch boards’ made yesterday for a private function at Back’s #breakfast #brunch #croissant #backs #cheese #bread #fresh #quality #paarl #morning #foodie #restaurant Chesses from @fairviewwineandcheese Meet from Fairview and cured by @bosmanrichard

A post shared by Back’s (@__backs__) on Feb 20, 2018 at 10:27pm PST

Ambience

Based in a beautiful old Cape Dutch-style building in Paarl’s main street, Back’s is respectful of the site’s heritage, and very stylish. It’s all tall windows, gleaming wooden floors, intricate brickwork and beautiful wooden ceilings. A big space with plenty of seating in various areas, this is the type of restaurant that could become all things to all people, as it would be fit for any occasion – an intimate dinner, a roaring birthday bash, or even an after-school milkshake meeting spot for a bunch of giggling teens. There’s a well-stocked deli section, as well as a dapper little bar in one of the rooms, which is just begging for a nice pre-dinner aperitif.

Have you been to Back’s? Write a review and we’ll feed a hungry child. Know the best way to write a review? Download our new app and write one in seconds. (Plus you could win R5000 cash just for downloading and registering in June 2018!)

Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay their way in full. Read our editorial policy here.