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An epicurean extravaganza

In the experience economy, titillation is the currency. Other than at El Bulli in Spain which pushed The Fat Duck from its number one perch, you will be hard pressed to find another more tantalising culinary experience.

Heston Blumenthal is now so well known for his cuisine – a commitment to looking at dishes in a new way – that he is almost a household name (or will be after a third series of his In Search of Perfection airs on BBC).

Dining at The Fat Duck in Bray (near Windsor outside London), is costly although not expensive when compared to other three Michelin-star rated restaurants in Europe.

We paid about R2000 each for our lunch – an 18-course extravaganza that begins and ends with his hallmark nitro freezing. The green-tea and lime mousse with lime spritzer is mixed and frozen at the table and is magical. In keeping with the theatrics, oak moss and truffle toast resembles a scene from The Rocky Horror. A taste film is placed on the tongue while the nitro is poured over an oak moss plant sending a scented fog over the table and onto our laps. Eating the truffle toast now takes on an entirely new dimension.

As exciting was Sound of the Sea – a dish that comes with an iPod playing sea sounds while youre eating. Its served in a wooden box with a glass top (“sea sand” is under the glass) while a crescent of seafood that looks just like a breaking wave floats above it. Tapioca sand, plump oysters, cockles and wakami are served with a rich sea foam.

Pink salmon in a square of liquorice is like a lacquer pillow  that defies the expected. Slices of oven-roasted artichokes, vanilla mayo and Manni olive oil (the most expensive on the planet!) complete the dish.

Nitro scrambled egg and bacon ice cream (prepared at the table by cracking open refilled eggs) is served with Pain perdu and tea jelly as the final curtain to a meal I will repeat at the first opportunity.

Brian Berkman

www.fatduck.co.uk

 

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