This is one cultural ceremony where no-one falls asleep.
Coffee was first discovered and enjoyed in Ethiopia, but not in the form we know it today. A young goatherd named Kaldis, who came from the Kaffa region of old Abyssinia, noticed how frisky his flock became after chewing the berries of a local tree. Being an adventurous lad, and always on the lookout for a good buzz, he decided to try them himself.
Soon this wonder berry was being put to use by all and sundry, including priests who had to stay awake through long night vigils. It wasn’t long before a brew was being concocted and drunk like wine. But the world had to wait until the seeds of the berries were roasted, ground and brewed before tasting the coffee we know today.
To enjoy this elixir of life at its best, join me on a trip to modern-day Ethiopia, to the wonderful old Finfine Hotel in downtown Addis Ababa. This sturdy old wooden hostelry oozes old-world atmosphere and is the ideal place to experience a full coffee ceremony.
The young lady entrusted with this important duty is known as a buna affee in the local language, and will be dressed in traditional dress. To prepare buna (coffee), she will start by washing the green coffee beans in a shallow pan called a metad. This pan is then placed over a charcoal burner and soon the room is filled with the rich aroma of freshly roasted coffee. Crystals of raw incense (etan) are sprinkled onto a small burner to add to the atmosphere.
While the roasted coffee beans are being pounded in a mortar and pestle, a snack of roasted popcorn or barley (kolo) is prepared. A coffee pot (jebena) is then placed on the charcoal burner and the grounds added. Once it has boiled and settled, the coffee is then poured into small cups called sini (no handles or saucers). This first strong black brew is called abol, and second tawna and the third birika, which are naturally weaker than the first cup. You snack on kolo while drinking buna, and the buna affee must never mix up the sini.
All a little confusing? Get to Ethiopia then to enjoy, experience and understand coffee and the culture that introduced it to the world.
For those who want to enjoy good coffee locally go to Addis in Cape. and Truth.coffecult or try out the Espresso Lab at the Biscuit Mill Market.
Head down to Coffee Saints in Pretoria for a heavenly brew. Living in Jozi has its perks too – especially when you can visit Bean There for artisan coffee with a conscience.
By Mike Copeland