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5 great restaurants that have stood the test of time

Friday, May 29th, 2015 by Gwynne Conlyn

The restaurant business is tough – many struggle to keep their doors open throughout the first year, never mind for five or even ten. An eatery that keeps the fires burning for decades is testament to dedicated owners, a good location, and some luck along the way. We count down five great restaurants in South Africa that have stood the test of time.

Ile Maurice (Umhlanga Rocks, Durban)

Ile Maurice, previously known as The St Geran Restaurant, was established in Durban 1976. It has since moved a few times, but remains in the hands of the original family. The menu offers sublime French-Mauritian cuisine, with the dishes originally created and perfected by the indomitable Elsie Mauvis, who stood her ground in the kitchen until the age of 90. Her son, Jean, is now at the helm, aiming to celebrate Ile Maurice’s 40th anniversary in 2016.

La Perla (Sea Point, Cape Town)

Established in the Cape Town city centre in 1959, La Perla moved to bluer climes on the Sea Point Beach Road in 1969. With its heavy furniture and old-time sophisticated air, La Perla remains popular for the floor-to-ceiling ocean views, classic Italian cuisine, and the fabulous customers. The waiters – a number of whom are almost museum-quality – add a bit of cheek and excellent service.

La Perla

La Perla. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The Radium Beer Hall (Orange Grove, Johannesburg)

Open since 1929 as a tearoom, this establishment led a double life as a shebeen before being granted a liquor licence in 1942. If ever Radium had to close down, the long bar counter would be a priceless memento. The deeply worn wood speaks of countless beers across the years, but its history goes back even further to a 1922 miners’ strike when ‘Pink Handle Mary’ climbed on top to deliver a speech. In addition to the historic bar, Radium remains a very good Portuguese eatery with chips that are worth the trip. Their live music evenings are often fully booked, and service doesn’t falter even when people dance in the aisles.

The Jazzed Up Radium Beerhall

The Jazzed Up Radium Beerhall. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Seabelle (Tongaat, Durban)

There might not be any collectibles if Seabelle – which has been going now for more than 40 years – ever closes down, unless you’re tempted to take home some seashells while you’re enjoying a pre-prandial beach walk. And sometimes you have to amuse yourself: the waiters appear to move in slow motion. But folk keep coming back for the grills and incomparable seafood curries.

Seabelle. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Seabelle. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Wandie’s Place (Soweto, Johannesburg)

Nowadays at Wandie’s Place in Orlando West, the regular patrons park their sleek vehicles outside. Back in the 1980s it was a shebeen, but more recently owner Wandile Ndala has welcomed local and international guests – including Tom Cruise, Quincy Jones and Richard Branson – through its doors. The highlight is the buffet of traditional dishes, including dumplings, pap and umqusho accompanied by beef, sausage or chicken, with salads and chakalaka on the side.

Wandie's Place. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Wandie’s Place. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

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11 Comments

  • Gary
    May 30, 2015

    Total incomplete list, Gwynne.
    Ritrovo in Pretoria? Blues in Campsbay?
    Loads of others too.
    Maybe a bit more research would be good before compiling a list

    Reply
  • Pinkie
    May 31, 2015

    Magica Roma-Pinelands-Cape Town

    Reply
  • Sue Delaney
    May 31, 2015

    Absolute rubbish review of La Perla. Service is non existent, waiters are the rudest, complacent lot ever. It’s like the customer is doing them a huge favour being there! Such a shame as location is great, foods good but staff need changing, big time. Never forget when a waiter spilt wine over my husbands shirt and just shrugged his shoulders and said, ok so send me the cleaning bill and walked away!

    Reply
    1. Eva Waldman
      June 3, 2015

      A few years ago at La Perla I found a lock of hair in my salad. I was chewing and chewing and this ” piece of lettuce ” did not break down. When I drew their attention to it they offered me a new salad. Had to pay for it. No compensation what so ever. They don’t care they have the position.

  • Erica Platter
    May 31, 2015

    Seabelle is great fun and the curries can be good. But “incomparable”?

    Reply
  • W Q Pitaway
    June 3, 2015

    what about Panama Jacks ? established in 1989

    Reply
    1. Eat Out
      June 8, 2015

      Hi there. Thanks for the info! While Panama Jacks deserves mention, we only had space for five restaurants in this ‘5 great’ feature. All the best

  • Stefano
    June 3, 2015

    This list is utter rubbish!!! Not sure what its purpose actually is.

    Reply
  • Fernando
    June 3, 2015

    What about Parreirinha in the South of Joburg-30 years and going very strong???

    Reply
    1. Eat Out
      June 8, 2015

      Hi Fernando. Parreirinha is definitely a keeper! This list only had room for five restaurants though. All the best

  • Gill Embling
    June 4, 2015

    Absolutely agree with Sue Delaney’s comments re La Perla. We will never go back. The service is dreadful – the waiters act as though they are doing you a great favour. Also Ritrovo is a keeper – love that restaurant!

    Reply

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