48 is a great number. It’s the smallest number with 10 divisors; it’s the atomic number for Cadmium; and the code for international direct dials to Poland. And right now, it might be our favourite numeral, given that it’s also the ranking of The Test Kitchen in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
It might sound like a high number, but that’s number 48 in the world. (Channel Jeremy Clarkson when you read that.) To give you an idea of the restaurants The Test Kitchen is rubbing shoulders with: Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck was ranked at number 47.
And having eaten at the restaurants currently ranked at numbers three (Osteria Francescana) and four (Eleven Madison Park), our team is pretty sure The Test Kitchen will be right up there with the best of them – just as soon as more of the international panel of critics have made their way there.
Executive chef Luke Dale-Roberts can create a landscape out of red cabbage. (Embed)
Even the breadsticks are delicious.
So is the Jersey milk butter.
The casual atmosphere sets us at ease.
The pineapple cosmopolitans, dotted with vanilla seeds, are unbelievably good.
The staff know how to have a good time while still conveying absolute professionalism.
They improve our vocabulary. (Every time we visit we have to google something. Chawanmushi, anyone?)
Even though the dishes sound seriously weird – veal sweetbreads, almond falafel, chicken-and-sherry glaçage – everything works together beautifully.
They taught us that sweetbreads are actually delicious.
All hail the creator of the concrete ball crayfish. (The dish was invented by Luke after he discovered concrete bowls that could be connected to make a sphere. The bowl is filled with hot coals, cinnamon and vanilla sticks. The crayfish tail is placed directly onto the coals and the bowl is covered to make the sphere, which is placed at the table to cook while guests eat hors d’oeuvres.)
They play hard to get. The months-long waiting list makes any visit a longed-for occasion.
The wine list has a great selection of not only SA’s best vintners, but also some of our more interesting and hard-to-find wines.
The restaurant looks like nothing special from the outside; but inside, it’s paradise.
There are no roses and white tablecloths in sight, but it’s superlatively romantic: dark and mysterious and beautiful.
The high staff-to-diner ratio means attentive service is guaranteed.
Diners get to eat from interesting stone bowls, slates, petri dishes and beautiful wooden bowls.
Sitting at the kitchen counter is like watching a ballet. The kitchen staff seem to dance around each other as they go about preparing each plated dish – and they manage to casually chat to diners as they go about it.
The waiters are cute.
They wear incredibly skinny pants.
…And they make the evening fun.
The super-smart sommelier, Wayve, suggests unusual wine pairings that really make the food come alive.
The sleek, edgy, masculine interior allows the food to shine.
The golden orbs dangling from the ceiling add an otherworldly touch.
Their international reputation adds to their allure.
They gave little ol’ Woodstock serious credibility.
They love to experiment, even naming themselves after the fact.
There’s something on the menu right now that includes grilled white chocolate, and we desperately want to try it.
They feed us flavours we’ve never tasted, in combinations we’d never dreamed of.
The Test Kitchen is over hyped and over rated. Pot Luck Club provides a far more pleasurable experience. It’s true that the space and the atmosphere is classy but the food is really not memorable. Everything is beautifully cooked and presented, but the savoury courses on the gourmand menu are very safe in terms of flavour variety. What’s more is that the desserts and palate cleansers are poor; either way too sweet, way too rich or way too astringent. David Higgs has put together a far superior dining experience at 500 and thoroughly deserves the no.1 accolade at the next Eat Out awards. Test Kitchen was far better in its early days.
Nice so good.
The Test Kitchen is over hyped and over rated. Pot Luck Club provides a far more pleasurable experience. It’s true that the space and the atmosphere is classy but the food is really not memorable. Everything is beautifully cooked and presented, but the savoury courses on the gourmand menu are very safe in terms of flavour variety. What’s more is that the desserts and palate cleansers are poor; either way too sweet, way too rich or way too astringent. David Higgs has put together a far superior dining experience at 500 and thoroughly deserves the no.1 accolade at the next Eat Out awards. Test Kitchen was far better in its early days.